How to change the drive belt in a MTD lawn mower

How to change the drive belt in a MTD lawn mower

The self-propelled MTD lawnmower is a well-designed, sturdy machine with a reasonable price. The lawnmower is equipped with a powerful motor and an efficient mulching blade, and it works at three forward speeds to cope with different grass and density heights. Although the machine is designed to operate for prolonged periods with minimal maintenance, the drive belt must be periodically replaced to maintain efficiency. Although replacing the V-belt is a rather complicated process, the right approach can be done in less than an hour.

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Instructions
Removing the Belt

1 Unplug the spark plug and secure the mains cord away from the spark plug to prevent accidental contact during work.

2 Remove the fuel tank cap. Place a piece of thin plastic sheet while filling the tank. Screw the lid back and tighten it to prevent fuel leakage through the vent hole.

3 Move the mower shift lever to the first position. Tilt the mower on its side with the carburetor facing up.

4 Jam a thick wood wedge between mower blade and housing to prevent blade from rotating. Remove the center bolt that attaches the blade to the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Lift the blade adapter, corrugated washer, spacer, and lawn mower blade and put them on one side.

5 Scrape the compacted grass layer from the bottom of the mower case with a spatula. Spray the clean house with a garden hose. Move the mower on a flat, clean surface like the driveway. Lower the rear height adjustment lever of the sixth position before tipping the mower on its side.

6 Remove the three hex screws that the grass catcher round on the bottom of the lawn mower with a 3/8 wrench. Pivot the deflector toward the rear of the mower to reveal the drive frame of the bolting square to the underside of the lawnmower.

7 Locate the transmission clamp bolt to the mower housing on the outside left side of the housing. Remove the screw with a socket wrench.

8 Tilt The square front drive assembly to facilitate slack on the drive belt and to reveal the drive pulley.

9 Locate the small tension pulley on the lower left side of the drive pulley. Undo idler Pulley Nut Center bolt with two opposite 7/16 wrenches, and undo the bolt tensioning pulley half-turn.

10 Pull the strap holder attached to the side of the idler pulley of the idler groove with a pair of pliers. Turn the bracket to the left so that it enters the tensioning pulley and the belt.

11 Slide the V-belt between the belt clamp and the tensioning pulley.

12 Tighten the two sides of the tape together and push the tape forward. Hold the light strap together with a pair of pliers.

13 Push the large tapered-speed control arm that covers the bottom of the mower toward the deck. Slide the three-speed control cable attached to the upper end of the control arm of your slot.

14 Pivot The idler pulley distance control arm and push it down to clear the crankshaft pulley and belt. Remove the clamping pliers to release the tension on the belt.

15 grasp the outside of the belt surrounding the Split crankshaft pulley and pull it up to separate the two halves of the split pulley. Lift the lower half of the split crankshaft pulley assembly with your fingers. Remove worn belt from all split crankshaft pulley, idler pulley, and drive pulley.
Belt Change

16 Pass a new MTD drive belt onto the drive pulley so that the V-side of the belt sits in the groove of the pulley.

17 Feed the flat part of the new strap on the idler pulley so that the section of the V-belt faces outward. Thread the belt between the tensioning pulley and the previously displaced belt fixing bracket.

18 Turn the belt-locking bracket in place with a pair of pliers until it snaps into the slot of the middle bracket attached to the idler pulley.

19 Tighten the center-bolt tensioner Pulley half a turn and then tighten the locknut with an opposite pair of 7/16 keys.

20 Place The belt between the two halves of the crankshaft pulley divided with the routing belt on the inside of the belt guard pin on the idler bracket.

21 Tighten the two halves of the belt together and push the lower half of the split crankshaft pulley toward the motor.

22 lift the control arm and turn inward so that it returns to its original position covering the bottom of the lawnmower; This will cover the upper half of the split crankshaft pulley and the force downward by tightening the two halves of the crankshaft pulley together.

23 Re-install the three-speed cable at the end of the control arm. Tilt the new transmission assembly in place. Insert the previously removed bolt and tighten securely with a socket wrench.

24 Pivot of the grass catcher Deflector in place and secure with the three 3/8 hex-head screws previously removed.

25 Lubricate the blade adapter with a thin layer of lawn mower motor oil and replace the cutting blade by reversing the steps previously carried out. Blade Wedge with a block of wood and tighten the setscrew with a torque wrench set to 600 inch/lbs.

26 Lower the mower back on its wheels. Remove the plastic from under the filter cover and replace the spark plug wire to complete the installation.

How to change the strap on a mobile front lawn mower

How to change the strap on a mobile front lawn mower

Propelled front lawn mowers use a drive belt to drive the two front wheels, taking up much of the mowing work. With the lawn mower pulling itself along, you just have to walk behind it, heading in the direction you want to go. Over time the drive belt can stretch or break. The front wheel drive will not operate until the belt is replaced. This relatively simple repair can be done at home to save time and expense of transporting the mower to a repair shop.

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Instructions

1 Pull the thread from the spark plug tip before servicing the mower.

2 Remove the screws securing the transmission cover to the front of the cutting platform, using a screwdriver while working gloves are used. Remove the cover to expose the drive belt and a pulley mechanism connected to the front axle.

3 Loosen the screw on the upper part of the pulley to relax the tension on the drive belt.

4 Pull the pulley back toward the motor to slide the pulley drive belt.

5 tilt the mower on its side so the air filter on the engine side is facing up. The air filter is a cylinder with holes in the bottom or sides, depending on the model.

6 Pull the pulley drive belt under the mower blade. On some models, you may need to remove the nut holding the blade on the drive shaft with pliers to remove the drive belt.

7 Slide the new belt onto the drive shaft on the bottom of the lawn mower and the belt seat on the pulley.

8 Push the tape through the slot in the cutting platform and stretch the strap over the tension pulley at the top of the cutting platform. Seat the belt on the pulley and tighten the screw in the center of the pulley to restore the belt tension.

9 Place the transmission cover through the belt and pulley at the top of the cutting platform and secure with screws.

10 Push the clip onto the motor cable back into the spark plug tip.

How to change the drive belt a Husqvarna lawn mower

How to change the drive belt a Husqvarna lawn mower

The drive belt on a lawn mower Husqvarna powers The external moving parts, including the clutch system and cutting blades. This drive belt extends around five pulleys on many Husqvarna lawn mowers. To change the tape, it should be removed from the pulleys. However, this can be done only with the mower platform of the lawn mower. Belts wear and thin with time, cracks and breaks gradually. Check the status of the drive belt after every 10 hours of operation.

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Instructions

1 Husqvarna lawn Mower Park on a flat work surface. Push the brake pedal while in the brake lever. Pull down on the clutch lever to move it to the "disconnected" setting.

2 Slide the "Off" key on the ignition and pull it. Disconnect the rubber charger from the spark plug wire from the end of the plug. Place the spark plug wire so it will not contact the spark plug during maintenance.

3 push down on the lift lever to lower the cutting platform to its lowest position. Slowly roll the drive belt out of the rear drive pulley and out of the strap fasteners just in front of the pulley. Pull the stabilizer bar retaining spring into the chassis. Push the housing guide out of the bracket.

4 disengage the clutch cable spring from the tensioner arm. Pull the retaining spring from the front Joint Assembly and disconnect the link in front of the mower. Disconnect the suspension arms by pulling the retaining spring out of the brackets. Pull the retaining spring from the rear lift links and disconnect them from the back supports.

5 Pull the cutting platform from under the Husqvarna mower. Roll the chuck pulleys with your hand while pulling the pulley drive belt. Remove belt from tension pulleys. Remove the belt from the cutting platform.

6 Work The new strap in place on both mandrel pulleys and strap guides. Wrap the strap around the two idler pulleys. Put the belt in all the guides. Re-install the cutting platform in the reverse order of its removal. Re-connect the drive belt of the rear drive pulley.

How to repair a Scotts lawn mower

How to repair a Scotts lawn mower

A Scotts lawn mower is a reel type slitter that does not have an electric or petrol engine. Instead, the mower has five spiral-shaped blades that rotate against a cutting bar, driven by the forward movement of the large front wheels of the mower. Since there is no escape from the engine to contribute to any pollution problem, coil cutters are ideal for environmentally-conscious gardeners. If your clipper will need any change, you can repair a Scotts lawn mower with some common hand tools.

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Instructions

1 Place the mower on a work table and remove the handle assembly.

2 Turn the mower on the left side. Slide a flat-blade screwdriver into the C-clip in the center of the drive wheel on the right side and pry it out of the shaft. Take off the wheel and set aside.

3 Check the condition of the drive sprocket on the spindle. If you see damage, replace with a new transmission gear. Replace the drive wheel and C-clip.

4 Position the cutter so that the two wheels are on the table. Push the mower forward, and see how the spiral blades turn against the cutting bar. The blades should slide smoothly without gaps between the blades and the bar. If gaps appear, adjust the screw on each side of the cutting bar until both sides slide the blades against the bar evenly.

5 Push the mower forward again, and insert a paper strip over the beaters. The blades must be cut cleanly from the newspaper. If the paper does not cut cleanly, you may have to repeat the settings in the previous step.

6 Put the handle back on the lawnmower, and place the machine on the ground. Lawn mower test. The mower should be cut evenly and smoothly.

How to repair a starter cable in a Weed Eater lawn mower 22 inches

How to repair a starter cable in a Weed Eater lawn mower 22 inches

The starter rope in a Weed Eater lawn mower 22 inches runs through a spring pulley and kick system. The pulley is located on the steering wheel and when the rope is pulled, the pulley and the steering wheel rotate together. When the rope is released, the return spring engages and pulls the rope back into the pulley. This rope can get frayed, worn or torn from too much traction. The pulley and recoil spring may also lose its effectiveness and need to be replaced.

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Instructions

1 unscrew the cover of the starter box. On some models, you may need to remove the fuel tank for access to the screws on the boot box cover. Unscrew the fuel tank and remove the cover from the starter box. Unscrew the bolt securing the rope guide and rope to one side of the lawn mower handle.

2 switch on the starter covers more than access the starter rope pulley. Keep your thumb on the pulley. Cut the old wire at the base of the handle and into the knot in the pulley. Let the tension out in the recoil spring slowly, raising the thumb a little at a time. Take the old wire from the pulley.

3 Loosen the pulley on the cover of the starter box. Slide the screw, washer and pulley. Remove the return spring from inside the center of the pulley. Inspect the pulley and return spring for damage and replace if they break.

4 Pass the new length of the starter rope through the hole inside the pulley. Tie a knot in the base of the rope and pull the rope all the way through the hole. Wind the wrist-needle rope around the pulley. Push the return spring back into the center of the pulley. Lubricate the starter post with the grease of the motor. Set pulley, washer and screw, tighten starter post screw.

5 Jiggle the pulley back and forth until it is coupled with the return spring. Pass the rope through the hole in the starter cap. Pass the rope through the starter handle and tie another knot in the top of the handle. Make sure the starter rope pulls out and recoils again.

6 fit the starter-box cover back into the motor. Tighten all screws. Replace the fuel tank if necessary. Route the starter rope to the mower handle and replace the rope guide, tighten the screw with the wrench.

How to repair the starter rope in a lawn mower

How to repair the starter rope in a lawn mower

Each time you pull start your mower, the nylon braided wire is rubbed against the round and smooth splint on the side of the starter coil. This constant friction makes the rope wear out and finally break. Since it only takes a few minutes to adapt to a new cable, removing the recoil starter and winding a new rope around the pulley at the first sign of wear, it is easier to replace a frayed rope than to excavate the jammed debris from the pulley des Then the rope fits.

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Instructions

1 Loosen the three or four 1/4-inch bolts that hold the starter coil to the motor with a socket wrench, and place the unit in inverted position on your workbench.

2 cut the cable just below the starter handle with a pair of side cutters and unwind the wire around the pulley. Grasp the knot protruding from the pulley flange with a pair of pliers, and pull the worn rope out of the starter motor.

3 Feed a new rope through the starter handle. Tie an eight knot around the end of the cable protruding through the back of the handle and cut the rope about an inch from the knot. Hold the handle with one hand and give the rope a couple of pulls to tighten the knot.

4 Relax the pulley around half a turn counterclockwise against the return spring tension until the flange hole in the pulley lines aligns with the ferrule on the side of the casing. Keep the pulley with your thumb and feed the new cable through the splint and up through the hole in the pulley flange.

5 Tie a single knot on the end of the cable. Pull the protruding rope out of the splint, and give it a couple of pulls to tighten the simple knot on the pulley. The ease of the rope to allow the pulley, to close the clock needles again around half a turn until it stops.

6 cut the cord about 3/8 inches from the knot and seal the end by melting with a lighter or phosphorus to prevent frayinging.

7 Hook a folded paper clip around the rope between the splint and the pulley. Pull the rope up to form a loop between the pulley and the inside edge of the casing, until the handle rests on the side of the casing. Rest the pulley a bit to align the notch on the upper outer edge of the pulley, about an inch before the splint arrives.

8 Insert the end of the rope pulley into the notch on the edge of the pulley at the bottom. Roll the two-turn pulley anti-clockwise against the return spring tension until the rope engaged in the notch is just after the splint. Pull the starter handle to release the rope from the notch; Relieve the tension on the rope to allow the pulley to relax and draw the handle to the side of the casing.

9 Check that the rope has removed the starter handle all the way to the side of the back casing; If there is still some slack, repeat the previous step and the tension of the pulley to the left again, before pulling the free rope from the notch on the side of the pulley; This should point the handle to the bottom against the side of the casing.

10 Attach the starter coil to the motor with the screws removed above, and the test to start the mower to complete the installation.

How to repair the electric clutch in an Ariens lawn mower

How to repair the electric clutch in an Ariens lawn mower

Ariens is a company that manufactures snow throwers and with walking driver, pushing lawn mowers. The company also manufactures a variety of riding lawn mowers. The cutting platform on the Ariens mower is controlled by the electric clutch. The clutch sends electric current from the battery to the cutting platform. Over time, the electrical clutch may become worn and spoiled. The cutting unit will not activate if the electrical clutch is outside. Replacing the electric clutch Ariens takes about an hour.

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Instructions

1 Ariens Clipper Park on a flat, level surface and then adjust the cutting platform to its highest level.

2 Open the Machine motor cover and remove the negative battery cable with an adjustable wrench.

3 Slide the jack under the mower, Jack upwards and the assembly connector is placed in place. Lower the Ariens in the making of grandstands.

4 Disconnect the plastic wire harness attached to the electrical clutch.

5 loosen the belt tension bolt and remove the drive belt from the pulleys.

6 Remove the bolt that attaches the electrical clutch to the crankshaft with the set of tubes. If lever is needed to remove the bolt, slide a swivel bar over the Ratchet key handle and then remove the bolt.

7 Raise the clutch age and retighten the new clutch in place. Screw in the setscrew and tighten with the set of tubes.

8 Adjust the back belt on the pulleys, slide the tensioner clockwise to increase the belt tension and tighten the tension bolt with the set of tubes.

9 Plug the electrical wiring harness into the new electrical clutch.

10 lift the Ariens, pull the grandstands and then lower the mower to the ground. Replace the negative battery cable.

How to light the headlights on a lawn mower Husqvarna YTH1542

How to light the headlights on a lawn mower Husqvarna YTH1542

Husqvarna YTH1542 Lawn Mower is an onboard driver, model tractor type. The lawn mower has a maximum speed of 5.5 miles per hour and forwards 2.4 MPH in reverse. The machine includes a front headlight that can be used to increase visibility for safety reasons, and provide forward lighting. The Headlight bulb is user-replaceable. Turning on the headlight in operation consists of a switch.

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Instructions

1 Identify the light switch ON the YTH1542 by sitting on the driver's seat and looking at the right side of the instrument panel behind the steering wheel. The order of the instruments from top to bottom is "clutch switch cover," Lights "and" stopwatch ".

2 Turn the light clockwise switch to turn on the headlights. Turn the switch to the left to turn it off.

3 Replace the bulb if the lights do not light. Lift the cover and pull the bulb holder out of the hole in the back of the grill. Replace the bulb in the bracket and push the lamp holder carefully back into the hole in the back of the grille. Near the bell.

How to repair the self-propelled belt in a Murray lawn mower

How to repair the self-propelled belt in a Murray lawn mower

When the drive belt on your Murray self-propelled mower begins to wear out, the drive system may start to fail, which can cause the drive belt to slide out of the drive pulley. When this happens, you must repair the drive belt that is used for the auto-propulsion function of the mower. You can repair the propel belt in a Murray lawn mower by removing the old transmission belt and installing a new one.

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Instructions

1 Locate the spark plug wire, and unplug it from the spark plug.

2 Remove the screw used to secure the mower strap cover with a screwdriver. Take the belt cover out of the mower.

3 loosen the belt tension bolt with the socket wrench. The belt tension Bolt is located next to the wheel adjustment lever on the front left side of the machine.

4 Pull the front of the drive belt out of the drive pulley located on the top of the motor.

5 Tilt the mower over the side, and pull the back of the drive belt over the mower blade.

6 Insert the back of the new drive belt over the mower blade, and place the front of the belt over the drive pulley.

7 Tighten belt tension bolt with socket wrench.

8 Locate the adjusting nut located on the bottom of the lawnmower near the belt tension bolt.

9 Tighten the nut with the wrench until it touches the spacer, and slightly loosen the nut so that the spacer can rotate.

10 Place the cover strap on the lawn mower and secure it with the screw.

11 Reconnect the spark plug wire to the spark plug.
Tips and warnings

    A new drive belt can be found in a tractor shop or directly from the manufacturer.
    If the spark plug wire is not disconnected, the mower could be accidentally started.

How to repair the front transmission in a 22-inch-6 HP GTS Toro recycler Lawn mower

How to repair the front transmission in a 22-inch-6 HP GTS Toro recycler Lawn mower

When you take the automatic unit on your bull mower 22-inch 6.5 HP GTS and does not move automatically forward, the belt slides too likely to participate properly. This means that the drive belt that runs the front wheels of the motor must be replaced. The process does not require the help of a certified Toro repairman. In fact, you can complete the repairs in your own backyard with a simple key or set.

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Instructions

1 unplug spark plug wire from spark plug to ensure no possibility of motor accidentally looking. It will work around the cutter blades which is vital to deactivate the engine.

2 Place the mower on the left side or so the black cover on the left wheel rests on the ground.

3 Remove the two 3/8 inch bolts that hold the cover in place with a wrench and then place the cap aside.

4 Remove the mower blade with a 5/8 inch wrench and then place the blade aside.

5 Remove the top screw that holds the strap guide in place with a 5/8-inch wrench. Loosen the lower screw that holds the guide in place with the same wrench and then move the belt guide away from the driver assembly.

6 Remove the belt from the pulley on the driver assembly and then pass through the cover toward the front of the mower.

7 Remove the strap from around the pulley on the front of the mower and then pull the strap out of the "fingers" on the mounting bracket with your fingers. Discard the old belt.

8 Place the strap between the "fingers" and then loop the strap around the pulley on the front of the mower. Pass the belt through the hole in the cutting platform.

9 Place the belt around the pulley under the mower and then turn the guard into position. Secure the protection by tightening the screws.

10 Place the cutting blade on the shaft and tighten with the correct screw.

11 Place the cover on the front of the machine and secure it with the two correct screws.

12 Reconnect the spark plug wire to the cutter.

End-of-season storage : lawn mower

End-of-season storage : lawn mower

To avoid starting problems next season, run the mower until it is cut for lack of fuel. This should remove most fuel from the carburetor and bowl and help prevent all gumming up. To prevent corrosion, allow the mower to cool, remove the spark plug and place a teaspoon of oil through the plug hole. Pull the starter cable a couple of times and replace the plug. Remove all the caked grass from the bottom of the shelf as it can ferment, acidify and eat through the metal over time.

Useful Links

Briggs and Stratton Oil recommendations

Locating engine model numbers, types and codes for outdoor power equipment in small Jack motors


If you can't start your lawnmower, maybe it's time to buy a new one. Consult my guide to choose and buy a lawn mower that analyzes the pros and cons of the electric, gas and battery models.

My personal experience with lawn mowers

I don't fix the turf equipment professionally, but I learned all this by playing with the engines since I was a teenager, and I have gained approximately thirty years of experience with lawn mowers, thread cutters and hedge trimmers.

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Routine lawn mower maintenance checks during the summer

Routine lawn mower maintenance checks during the summer

•     Check the oil every month or more regularly depending on usage.
•     Remove any grass or leaves from the cooling fins in the stock. Air blown through the flaps through the steering wheel drives the heat away from the engine so it is important that they are not clogged.
•     Sharpen the blade a few times during the season, again depending on use. If you have a small lawn, a single sharpening at the beginning of the year should suffice.
•     Check for loose nuts or screws on wheels or other parts of mower.
•     If possible, drip some light oil from the machine into the control cables for the throttle and the unit. If you do this little by little, it will slide along the wires on the cable sleeves, avoiding corrosion and grip.
•     Try to avoid mowing when wet. Wet grass clippings adhere to the bottom of the platform along with mud and other dirt. This clogs the way to the collection bag and eventually the engine may have difficulty during cutting. After use in these conditions, wash the bottom of the platform with a hose, but try not to put water in the motor and air filter.

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Do not attempt to start an engine without the blade! : lawn mower

Do not attempt to start an engine without the blade! : lawn mower

Small motors, such as lawn mowers, usually have an aluminum flywheel, and the additional weight of the blade is actually part of the steering wheel system. If you are familiar with the mechanics (a branch of physics), you will know that this increases the moment of inertia of the system. If the blade is removed, it will be difficult to start the engine due to insufficient turn impulse when pulling on the starter cable.

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Throttle and Governor links : lawn mower

Throttle and Governor links : lawn mower

    Verify that the throttle cable is actuating the accelerator plate through the links. These can sometimes be caught or obstructed by small grass or twigs.
    Make sure the governor's linkage does not keep the throttle closed. A governor is a device that regulates the speed of an engine, keeping it constant regardless of the load on the engine. On a lawn mower, two types of governor are used. A system consists of a paddle pivoted at one end and connected to the accelerator plate in the carburetor through a spring and joints. The air is directed from the flaps of the steering wheel to the fin. If the motor slows down (due to long grass), this reduces the air force on the paddle. This allows a spring to open more the throttle, allowing more fuel in the engine, which gives it more power and this increases the speed to compensate. The governor also limits the engine's excess acceleration by closing the throttle when the load is reduced. Another type of governor works by centrifugal force. A spool that can slide on a shaft acts on arms that move more outward as the engine speed increases. The Reel powers the accelerator through links.

    With the air filter removed and the use of a torch, you can determine the position of the choke and choke valves. These are dishes that open or close at the entrance. The outermost plate is the choke that almost completely obstructs the airway when it is turned on during a cold start of the engine. The accelerator plate creates the slightest obstruction with the throttle thoroughly and the regulator binding should not be closed before the engine starts. Verify that the governor can move freely and does not stick.

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Smoke is a symptom of a tale : lawn mower

Smoke is a symptom of a tale : lawn mower

The color of the exhaust smoke is a symptom that reveals problems with an engine.

White or blue smoke?

This is caused by the burnt oil in the engine. While a certain amount of oil is consumed and burned under normal circumstances, blue smoke clouds indicate a problem. Old engines emit smoke as the cylinder wears out (motor burnout) and the piston and rings no longer fit as well. Excess oil is added to the cylinder and burned. Fractured piston rings can allow a large amount of oil to enter the cylinder.

The oil in combustion can also be caused by a defective vent that allows the oil to be expelled from the sump and then sucked into the engine through the carburetor (if there is a pipe connecting the vent to the carburetor).

However, another cause is an overloaded sump. On one occasion, my neighbor and his helpful friend decided to fill the lawnmower with oil and, being generous, decided to fill the oil to the edge of the oil filler cap. The result? Thick clouds of white smoke I could see in the distance! Yours really had to save the day and drain some oil from the pruner!

Black smoke?

Black smoke is an indicator of burning too much gas. This can be caused by too rich a mixture (adjust the mixer screw), a defective diaphragm or punctured in the carburetor, a choke that does not open when the engine starts or a dirty air filter.

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Engine compression : lawn mower

Engine compression : lawn mower

While fuel and a good spark are essential for starting an engine, good compression is also important. Compression is simply the capacity of the fuel/air vapor to be compressed by the piston into the cylinder (also known as the combustion chamber) before the ignition, without spilling out somewhere due to a bad seal.

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You can get a rough idea of compression by placing your thumb over the hole where the screw is threaded and pulling the starter cable or turning the handwheel if it is easier. You should be able to feel the pressure on your thumb. However, with the spark plug back in place, if the compression is severely compromised, the starter cable will be easy to pull, no resistance.

Bad compression can have several causes:

•     Spark Plug loose. It could be as simple as a loose spark plug, so tighten it. Do not use excessive force when tightening.
•     Defective cylinder Head gasket. The cylinder head is the part of the motor on which the plug is mounted. This is screwed into the cylinder block with the gasket inserted. You may notice burns or soot marks around the edges of the gasket.
•     Bore Wear. Another cause of bad compression is the wear of the orifice, which causes the piston to seal badly in the cylinder. This can happen when an engine reaches old age, or if it has been used without air filter or with little oil.
•     Clogged Open valves: Fire and spit. Another cause of poor compression is an open or poorly seated valve. During the 4-stroke cycle, an inlet valve is opened and allows the air/gas mixture to flow into the cylinder, and an exhaust valve opens to allow the burned gases to be ejected from the cylinder. During the compression stroke, both valves must be closed. Now, if valves do not settle and seal completely due to wear, the accumulation of deposits or the exhaust valve burned during many years of use of the engine, the compression can suffer. Another scenario is if an engine to one of the valves open. If the motor is stored for years without use, what can happen is clogging the valve in this position. Now, normally, a cam shaft opens each valve through rods in contact with the pushers called stems, and a spring returns the valve to the closed position. If the valve becomes clogged, the spring force is not strong enough to return the valve to the closed position. The symptoms of a stuck or worn valve may spit or shoot through the carburetor or the escape while the engine starts or that the Starter cable is actually easy to pull. So the moral of the story is "exercise" machines in storage periodically to prevent this from happening. This can be as simple as gently pull cable starting motor so all move internally. This applies to anything with moving parts, including engines, motors, tools and workshop equipment.

In fact, I experienced a compression problem with my lawn mower this morning, although it's not too old. The cable was easy to pull without resistance so I guess it jammed a valve. After leaving the engine for about an hour, the problem was solved, perhaps because the oil penetrated the lifters or valve stems.

When looking inside the cylinder through the spark plug hole or removing an inspection cap over a compartment (known as a valve hood) that provides access to the pushers, you can see if a valve is opening. Some engines have OHV or higher valves, and can be accessed again by removing an access cover. The valves can be released by spraying WD40 on the valve seat and on the stems. However, this may be beyond the ability of the hobbyist. If it is necessary to remove the cylinder head, when replacing it, the screws must be tightened in a staggered sequence and the bolts should ideally be re-tightened with a torque wrench.

The spit can also be caused by a mixture that fits too thin, which requires the mixing screw to turn to the left to enrich it (see above procedure). Another cause of spitting is a cut-off key, causing the timing to be off and the spark plug to trip at the wrong time.

FUEL PUMPS, Low oil level : lawn mower

FUEL PUMPS, Low oil level : lawn mower

FUEL PUMPS

Small motors use a simple gravity feed system to fill the floating container. Larger engines, such as lawn tractors, require a higher flow of gas. In addition, the gas tank may be located lower than the carburetor. Then a fuel pump may be required. These pumps may be electric, use a camshaft rod to operate a diaphragm in the pump or rely on the carburetor suction through a diaphragm-operated hose (a diaphragm is a flexible material drive pushed back and towards Ade Lante to fuel pump.

Typical faults in pumps are a loss of voltage in the pump, a clogged filter in the pump, a disconnected air hose, a perforated diaphragm, or the pump component intake.

Low oil level

Larger engines with an electrical system sometimes have a low-oil floating switch. This prevents the engine from starting and being damaged if the oil in the sump is below a threshold level.

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Fuel/air mixture adjustment : lawn mower

Fuel/air mixture adjustment : lawn mower

Another difficult starting cause is an incorrect fuel/air mixture ratio. The function of the carburetor is to mix fuel and air in a fog, which is then absorbed by the engine to burn it. A mixing screw adjusts a needle valve/jet, which controls the flow of gas to optimize the air/fuel mixture, maximizing the output power (some motors have no set screw and the mixture is factory set). The jet works exactly like the nozzle in a garden hose, producing a fine pulverization of gas particles. Unless someone has turned this screw since the last time you used your lawn mower, this is unlikely to be a problem. However, sometimes the dirt or gums may clog the valve. To adjust the mix:

•     If you are not sure if the screw was tampered with, turn it fully clockwise and then unscrew 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise.
•     Allow the engine to run for five minutes until it is completely hot.
•     Using a flat-head screwdriver, turn the screw clockwise, 1/4 back at a time, pausing for about 5 seconds after each adjustment until the motor starts to jam. Do this carefully, because if the spout is exceeded and screwed firmly into your seat, there is always a danger of damaging the soft tip of the needle valve.
•     Now repeat this procedure, but this time turn the screw counterclockwise until the motor begins to jam again.
•     Finally, place the screw halfway between the two loss positions. If the mixture is too poor, this can cause a phenomenon called "hunting", where the engine is put "brmmm brmmm brmmm" and accelerates and decelerates repeatedly. Hunting can also be caused by a stretched Governor's Wharf or an obstructed carburetor that restricts the flow of fuel. A poor mixture makes an engine run excessively hot and "spit". If the mixture is too rich, the symptoms are black smoke and an unburned gas odor.
•     Make sure that the fiber or rubber gaskets on the shaft of the mixing screw are in good condition. If poorly sealed, it reduces the engine's ability to absorb fuel.

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Automatic choke, Punctured diaphragm : lawn mower

Automatic choke, Punctured diaphragm : lawn mower

Automatic choke

The carburetor in these photos has an automatic choke. After starting the engine, the choke is kept closed by a bond attached to the diaphragm membrane. Once the engine starts, the carburetor venturi suction gradually pulls a section of the membrane for a few seconds, opening the choke through the linkage. The suction force acts through a small crest on the surface of the tank, which is seen in the picture above. If this flange is blocked, the choke plate will remain closed, flooding the carburetor.

Punctured diaphragm

A perforated diaphragm has symptoms that include a lack of response when the mixing screw is rotated clockwise, and the motor also continues to operate even when the mixing screw is fully tightened in the direction of the Clock needles. The engine will run erratically, intermittently, and fail due to excess fuel, and black smoke may also occur. The diaphragm is normally spent and pierced in the circular section that pumps the fuel. You can search for holding holes against a bright light or the sun. The only solution is a spare part.

Lawn Mower Parts Product

Carburetor type pump and weir : lawn mower

Carburetor type pump and weir : lawn mower

Some tanks are located under the carburetor, where a pump and weir system is used. This is the situation in the small engines of Briggs and Stratton.

•     The fuel is pumped from the tank by a suction-operated diaphragm of the air inlet.
•     It then flows into a small chamber/tank with a landfill that allows the gas to overflow into the tank once the camera is full. This ensures that the fuel level is constant, regardless of the fuel level in the main tank.
•     The mesh fuel filters cover the ends of the tubes that siphon fuel from the tank to the Chamber and the Chamber/tank to the carburetor venturi, and these can be covered with dirt, restricting the flow of fuel.
•     The diaphragm pump of this type of system can become worn and punctured, which causes the carburetor to absorb too much fuel. The symptoms are an engine that accelerates repeatedly up and down, produces a black ray, plus an odor of unburned gas. Alternatively, the pump can be stretched and "idle, in which case it will not be pumped at all. The only solution is to replace the diaphragm.
•     In addition, single-sense reed valves (which are only fins that form part of the diaphragm) may become clogged on tank/carburetor surfaces due to rubber deposits if fuel is left in the tank during the winter. This is why it is important to dry the lawnmower before storing it during the winter, and add a fuel stabilization product like STA-BIL to the gas to keep it cool. Ethanol in fuel attracts moisture that can be harmful to carburetors, causing corrosion over time and requiring carburetor reconstruction.

Lawn Mower Parts Product