How to make a double bed?
A piece of furniture that, without a doubt, improves the quality of life is a good bed. Although we already have one, if it is not in optimal conditions, it is worthwhile to encourage ourselves to change it, that is why we will teach how to build a 2-seater bed.
Order dimensioned pine finger cuts in the store. You need 2 pieces of 1.90 mt x30 cm for the sides, 1 of 1.50x30 for the footboard, 1 of 2.10x1.05 mt as backrest, one of 1.90x10 for the central beam, and another 2 of 42x27 for the watchmen. In addition, as a mattress support 1 piece of MDF 1.89 x 1.49 mt. The angles profiles come in strips of 6 mt, and in the same Patio where the profiles are, you can ask them to make 2 cuts per strip, in this case you have to cut 1 strip in 2 pieces of 190 cm and the other in 2 of 140 mt. But the remains have to be taken to the house, because smaller cuts will be needed.
ZIYOO 14 Inch Wooden Slats Platform Bed Frame, 3500lbs Heavy Duty, Strengthen Support Mattress Foundation, Quiet Noise Free, Full
A. Make the legs and shapes of the bed
Step 1 - Mark the stringers and footboard
Put these 3 pieces horizontally (2 cuts of 1,90x30 and 1 of 1,50x30) and mark along 20 cm and 40 cm from each end. At this point, and with the help of a square, measure 12 cm up and draw a diagonal to the 20 cm that were marked at the beginning. Then the 2 diagonals are joined with a straight line.
Step 2 - Mark the backrest
Put this piece (1 piece of 2.10x1.05) and mark along 50 and 70 cm from each end. At this point, and with the help of a square, measure 12 cm up and draw a diagonal to 50 cm that were marked at the beginning. Then the 2 diagonals are joined with a straight line.
Squad
The squares are a type of rule that, in addition to measuring the length, serves to measure angles, draw perpendicular lines and check the square at the corners. There are different types of brackets, some longer than others, even some have level to help in the measurement of angles.
Step 3 - Mark the table
Put these pieces (2 cuts of 42x27 cm) horizontally and make a mark at 18 mm from the upper right corner down. Then at the bottom left edge measure 20 cm along, draw a diagonal joining the 2 marked points.
Step 4 - Rebaje for the watchers
Mark on the sides (2 pieces of 1,90x30) a recess of 18 mm in thickness and 42 cm in length, this recess goes in one of the upper corners of each side.
Step 5 - Cut all the pieces
Press the pieces of wood in the inn one by one, to cut the shape of the legs with the jigsaw, and the diagonal of the lamps, following the figure marked in the previous points.
Step 6 - Sand all the pieces
Polish the stringers, footboard, backrest and sideboards, all edges and edges cut with the jigsaw, to eliminate splinters and improve the finish.
B. Drilling wooden pieces
Step 1 - Holes in stringers
The perforations for the legs go to 2.5 cm from each end, counting 6 and 20 cm from below
The perforations for the mattress go to 25 cm from the lower edge, and to 5 cm the holes at the ends and the other 3 to 45 cm from each other. Drill the holes with the drill and 8 mm wood drill
Step 2 - Holes in footboard
The perforations for the mattress go to 25 cm from the bottom edge, and to 5 cm the holes from the ends and the other 3 to 32.5 cm from each other.
Step 3 - Holes in the backrest
The perforations for the legs go to 32.5 cm from each end, counting 6 and 20 cm from below. The perforations for the mattress go to 25 cm from the bottom edge, but with a distance of 40 cm at the ends, and the other 3 to 32.5 cm from each other. Make the holes with the drill and 8 mm wood drill.
Step 4 - Holes in the central beam
The perforations for the central beam (piece of 1.90x10 cm) go to 2.5 cm from each end, with a separation of 3 and 7 cm. Drill the holes with the drill and 8 mm wood drill
Step 5 - Holes to join central beam to the structure
The perforations to join the central beam to the back and footboard are 4 more to the center of each piece. From the axis of these pieces you have to draw 2 lines parallel to the 3.9 cm, and make 2 holes in each of these lines, these holes go to 4 and 8 cm from the edge.
Make the holes with the drill and 8 mm wood drill.
Wood drill
The wood can be drilled with different types of drill, depending on the use that will be given to that drill, the diameter that must have and the type of wood. For the larger holes that must pass through the thickness of the wood a cup drill is used, for holes of smaller diameters a wood drill is needed, for those larger than 10 mm a palette drill is used, and when you want to make a guide in the wood for the screws a countersink drill bit is used.
Step 6 - Holes in the box spring
The perforations for the central beam (piece of 1.90x10 cm) go to 2.5 cm from each end, with a separation of 3 and 7 cm.
The perforations for the mattress go to 25 cm from the bottom edge, but with a distance of 40 cm at the ends, and the other 3 to 32.5 cm from each other. Make the holes with the drill and 8 mm wood drill.
Step 7 - Dye the wood
Apply the chosen color on all the pieces of wood, on both sides and all its edges. The technique that is used is the crankpin that is to apply the dye with huaipe, to leave it more even and to penetrate well on the surface. Let dry
Dye
The woods can be dyed to change their tone, it is a natural dye that is applied in the direction of the grain of the wood, and that you can throw 1 or more hands according to the intensity of the color you want. In this project, a Walnut color dye was used.
Step 8 - Protect the wood
Apply a waterproof varnish to the pieces of wood already dyed, which is spread with a brush on all sides and edges.
C. Angled profiles
Step 1 - Clean the angles
Pass a huaipe with turpentine on all sides of the corner profiles, which are already cut from the store, and the remains that must be cut later. This is to remove glue and dust stuck.
Step 2 - Cut small pieces
Cut the pieces that are not dimensioned, and that will help to structure the faces of the bed. It is made with the angle grinder, 4 pieces of 20 cm and 4 more than 10 cm are needed.
recommendations
When working with emery, it is necessary to use a mask, bib and gloves, since many sparks are leaking that must be avoided to reach the clothing and face.
Step 3 - Rough the edges
Eliminate the rebarbas of the recently cut pieces and the longer ones that come dimensionados of the shop, with the disk of roughing and the emery angular.
Emery accessory
It is important to unplug the grinder to change the disc. You must use a special key that comes with the angle grinder, and that has the proper shape to turn the lock and that is tight.
Step 4 - Holes in the small pieces
The angles also have to have perforations that match those that were made in the wood. In the pieces of 20 and 10 cm go 4 perforations, each one to 3 cm from the ends. We make these holes with an 8 mm drill bit.
Rent
All the power tools used in this project can be rented in any store: the drill, the orbital sander, the jigsaw and the angle grinder. They are rented according to the need of use, for example they can be taken by hour, days, weeks or even months.
Step 5 - Holes in the medium pieces
In the 2 pieces of 1.40 mt, 5 holes are only in 1 of their faces, 5 cm from the ends and the rest at 32.5 cm distance from each other. We make these holes with an 8 mm drill bit.
Step 6 - Holes in the long pieces
In the 2 pieces of 1.90 mt 5 holes are only on 1 of their faces, 5 cm from the ends and the rest at 45 cm distance from each other. We make these holes with an 8 mm drill bit.
Step 7 - Protect the angles
Although the profiles are inside the house, they must be protected with anticorrosive, in case water is spilled or a lot of humidity is generated in the bedroom. Apply with a drill on all sides and edges.
Anticorrosive
It is an oxide converting enamel that is made with modified waterproof alkyd resins. It provides a high gloss finish, very durable, excellent cover, which does not leave brush marks for being self-leveling. Its polymeric oxide inhibitor does not affect the brightness or purity of the colors.
D. Arm the bed
Step 1 - Set the angles of 20 cm
Put the 20 cm angles on each end of the footboard and on only one end of the sides (the one going towards the backrest). These profiles must be made to fit with the holes made in the legs of each piece. It is used 1 1/4 "bolt and nut, which are tightened with crown wrench and screwdriver
Step 2 - Join the structure
Join the sides, footboard and backrest, making the angles of 20 cm fit the perforations of the legs. It is used 1 1/4 "bolt and nut, which are tightened with crown wrench and screwdriver.
Step 3 - Put central beam
Fix the 4 angles of 10 cm to the center of the backrest and footboard, making them fit with the 4 perforations that were made in the center of these two pieces. It is used 1 1/4 "bolt and nut, which are tightened with crown wrench and screwdriver. Fit the central beam to the center of these 2 pairs of profiles of 10 cm and fix it with bolts and nuts.
Step 4 - Set long and medium angles
Place horizontally all over the interior perimeter of the structure the 2 profiles of 1.90 and 2 1.40 mt, making them fit with the holes made for the base of the mattress.
Step 5 - Fix the table
Countersink the pedestals in the location of the wood screws, and fix them in the recess on the side. Below the table, attach a chair bracket to the backrest to give this piece more support.
Step 6 - Assemble the box spring
Place the base of the mattress on the angles of the inside of the bed.
Felts
As the bed is heavy, if your floor is made of wood or ceramic we recommend putting these carpet stops on the legs, as this avoids scratching the covering.
Mattress
This bed uses a standard 2-seater mattress, but it is important to consider that the height that protrudes from the base is more or less than 25 cm so as not to stick on the stringers.
Saturday, February 16, 2019
Zinus 14 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation/Platform Bed Frame/Box Spring Replacement/Quiet Noise-Free/Maximum Under-bed Storage in Warm Grey, Full
How to make a removable wooden bed for children?
The age at which parents decide to move their children from their crib to a bed varies between one and a half years after three years, although the ideal is to ensure that the safety bars of the crib will no longer be necessary.
In this project we will teach how to build a 1-place bed designed for a child up to 10 years old, and removable so that it can be moved and stored without problems.
Zinus 14 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation/Platform Bed Frame/Box Spring Replacement/Quiet Noise-Free/Maximum Under-bed Storage in Warm Grey, Full
Tools
• Corner presses
• jig saw
• Electric drill
• Milling machine
• Circular saw
• Paddle wick 10 mm
• Saw cup 60mm
• Manual screwdriver
• Orbital sander
• Sponge roller
• Paint tray
• Metallic ruler
• Gloves
• Safety glasses
• Mask
materials
• 2 Premium premium 18mm
• 1 Melamine 18 mm
• 2 Strips of 1 x 2 "
• 1 Flex Mattress 1 seat
• 1 Cold Cola Normal with Doser 500 gr
• 5 Wood sandpaper nº 180
• 1 round cutter 1/4 "
• 4 marquise bolt 2 pcs
• 1 Water-based enamel
• 1 pin Flat head 1/4 x 2 1/2 4 pcs
The bed is 1 square, so the mattress to be used measures 90 × 190 cm, and 24 cm high; this gives a total bed size of 193.6 x 93.6 x 60 cm. Its structure will have 5 pieces of removable wood, and two wheels, also made of wood. A very important aspect is the bed will not have points or edges, its angles will be curved and the edges of its edges will be rounded, reducing the possibility of accidents.
The minimum size to cut is: 10 x 30 cm
The 30 cm should always be positioned horizontally.
Plate 1
Plate 2
STEPS TO FOLLOW
1- Wood cuts
• The 18 mm plywood should be cut with the circular saw in 4 pieces. The sides are 2 pieces one measuring 193.6 × 60 cm and the other 193.6 × 45 cm, the head 90x40cm and the footboard 90 × 38 cm. These pieces are cut with the circular saw.
• From the same 18 mm plywood board, cut 2 wheels with a diameter of 25 cm, this circle must be done with compass and cut with the jigsaw.
• The 18 mm melanin that will be the bedspring of the bed must be cut into a piece of 89.5 × 189.5 cm.
The Terciado Premium differs from other boards as it is eucalyptus, and comes with better finishes, no knots in sight and with a base sanding that saves a lot of time at work. The main characteristic of the plywood is to be plywood, which gives resistance to the wood. The 15mm common ply has 5 ply layers while the 15mm ply has 9 layers which gives it more strength and less chance of it becoming deformed.
2- Mark the pieces
• To make the legs, mark the footing 5 cm at each end towards the length of the piece, and 13 cm high. Each side has a leg that is 20 cm wide and 20 long, and that should be marked leaving 10 cm from the edge. And the other leg of each side is stuck to the edge, also measures 20 × 20 cm, but it should be deducted 7 cm high because that will be the space that will occupy the wheel.
• The highest side that is attached to the wall has a first recess that goes on the side of the shortest leg. This recess is 15 cm high and 103.6 cm long. And on the other side are 2 drafts, one larger 7.5 x 35 cm, and 7.5 cm from the top edge. And a second smaller draft that is attached to the right edge, also 7.5 cm high but only 10 cm long.
• And the header has 2 drafts, one attached to the left edge of 7.5 x 10 cm that goes to 7.5 cm from the top edge. And the other that is attached to the right edge that is 15 cm high and 10 cm long.
3- Cut the shapes
• Before cutting you have to mark the curves to all the drafts and terminations, this can be done with a compass or with the mold of a glass or round pot.
• Cut the drafts with jigsaw and straight lines with circular saw
4- Make the sommier
• To the piece of melamine it is necessary to make openings with wick 60 mm cup, 8 holes are made evenly distributed. These openings serve to make the mattress breathe and make the bed easier.
5- Fix the slats
• The bed base will be supported with strips that will be fixed to the bed all over the interior, flush with the lower edge, sticking them and screwing them by its widest face.
• The height at which the slats are fixed is calculated based on the 24 cm height of the mattress. The idea is that the mattress protrudes from the bed at least 4 cm, for comfort and especially to avoid contact with the edges.
Wick cup
The wick cup or saw cup is an accessory of the drill that serves to make circular cuts in wood or metal. There are different diameters that are measured in millimeters, in the center there is a pointed drill that marks the center of the hole.
6- Make the perforations
• The recommended and appropriate when building a bed, is that it is removable. For that reason, for joints you have to use bolts with marquise system, which have a bolt that is caught by a car that enters through a second hole. To install them, it is necessary to calculate that both perforations coincide.
• They go 2 bolts in each corner, 5 and 20 cm from the top edge, without bumping the slat that will hold the mattress. The bolt holes are made with a 7 mm wood drill bit and a 10 mm drill bit or carriage.
7- Round and sand
• With the router, round all edges and corners.
• Pass a soft sandpaper to remove the chips and improve the finish.
Milling machine
This machine is also known as a router or tupi, the good thing is that it can be leased, and it is a super good ally in carpentry work, because it makes recesses, cuts and cuts the wood, everything depends on the strawberry that is put on it.
8- Painting
• With a sponge roller, apply the polish to the glossy water on all the pieces and on all sides. The color chosen for the termination is a primary blue, close to the marine motifs. The paint is totally free of volatile organic compounds; ideal when it comes to children's furniture.
9- Arm the bed
• Affix the pieces with corner presses to join with the marquise bolts one of the sides with the headboard and then with the footboard, to finally fix the second side.
• To allow the wheels to turn, we attach them to the legs with flat head bolts, nylon socket and nylon lock. The location of the axis of the wheel is the measurement, from the ground, of its radius; including the shorter 7 cm of the leg.
• Place the mattress on the slats and then the mattress, which should be protruding approximately 4 cm.
• It is suggested to fix the bed base to the 1 × 2 slats, only in the center.
The age at which parents decide to move their children from their crib to a bed varies between one and a half years after three years, although the ideal is to ensure that the safety bars of the crib will no longer be necessary.
In this project we will teach how to build a 1-place bed designed for a child up to 10 years old, and removable so that it can be moved and stored without problems.
Zinus 14 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation/Platform Bed Frame/Box Spring Replacement/Quiet Noise-Free/Maximum Under-bed Storage in Warm Grey, Full
Tools
• Corner presses
• jig saw
• Electric drill
• Milling machine
• Circular saw
• Paddle wick 10 mm
• Saw cup 60mm
• Manual screwdriver
• Orbital sander
• Sponge roller
• Paint tray
• Metallic ruler
• Gloves
• Safety glasses
• Mask
materials
• 2 Premium premium 18mm
• 1 Melamine 18 mm
• 2 Strips of 1 x 2 "
• 1 Flex Mattress 1 seat
• 1 Cold Cola Normal with Doser 500 gr
• 5 Wood sandpaper nº 180
• 1 round cutter 1/4 "
• 4 marquise bolt 2 pcs
• 1 Water-based enamel
• 1 pin Flat head 1/4 x 2 1/2 4 pcs
The bed is 1 square, so the mattress to be used measures 90 × 190 cm, and 24 cm high; this gives a total bed size of 193.6 x 93.6 x 60 cm. Its structure will have 5 pieces of removable wood, and two wheels, also made of wood. A very important aspect is the bed will not have points or edges, its angles will be curved and the edges of its edges will be rounded, reducing the possibility of accidents.
The minimum size to cut is: 10 x 30 cm
The 30 cm should always be positioned horizontally.
Plate 1
Plate 2
STEPS TO FOLLOW
1- Wood cuts
• The 18 mm plywood should be cut with the circular saw in 4 pieces. The sides are 2 pieces one measuring 193.6 × 60 cm and the other 193.6 × 45 cm, the head 90x40cm and the footboard 90 × 38 cm. These pieces are cut with the circular saw.
• From the same 18 mm plywood board, cut 2 wheels with a diameter of 25 cm, this circle must be done with compass and cut with the jigsaw.
• The 18 mm melanin that will be the bedspring of the bed must be cut into a piece of 89.5 × 189.5 cm.
The Terciado Premium differs from other boards as it is eucalyptus, and comes with better finishes, no knots in sight and with a base sanding that saves a lot of time at work. The main characteristic of the plywood is to be plywood, which gives resistance to the wood. The 15mm common ply has 5 ply layers while the 15mm ply has 9 layers which gives it more strength and less chance of it becoming deformed.
2- Mark the pieces
• To make the legs, mark the footing 5 cm at each end towards the length of the piece, and 13 cm high. Each side has a leg that is 20 cm wide and 20 long, and that should be marked leaving 10 cm from the edge. And the other leg of each side is stuck to the edge, also measures 20 × 20 cm, but it should be deducted 7 cm high because that will be the space that will occupy the wheel.
• The highest side that is attached to the wall has a first recess that goes on the side of the shortest leg. This recess is 15 cm high and 103.6 cm long. And on the other side are 2 drafts, one larger 7.5 x 35 cm, and 7.5 cm from the top edge. And a second smaller draft that is attached to the right edge, also 7.5 cm high but only 10 cm long.
• And the header has 2 drafts, one attached to the left edge of 7.5 x 10 cm that goes to 7.5 cm from the top edge. And the other that is attached to the right edge that is 15 cm high and 10 cm long.
3- Cut the shapes
• Before cutting you have to mark the curves to all the drafts and terminations, this can be done with a compass or with the mold of a glass or round pot.
• Cut the drafts with jigsaw and straight lines with circular saw
4- Make the sommier
• To the piece of melamine it is necessary to make openings with wick 60 mm cup, 8 holes are made evenly distributed. These openings serve to make the mattress breathe and make the bed easier.
5- Fix the slats
• The bed base will be supported with strips that will be fixed to the bed all over the interior, flush with the lower edge, sticking them and screwing them by its widest face.
• The height at which the slats are fixed is calculated based on the 24 cm height of the mattress. The idea is that the mattress protrudes from the bed at least 4 cm, for comfort and especially to avoid contact with the edges.
Wick cup
The wick cup or saw cup is an accessory of the drill that serves to make circular cuts in wood or metal. There are different diameters that are measured in millimeters, in the center there is a pointed drill that marks the center of the hole.
6- Make the perforations
• The recommended and appropriate when building a bed, is that it is removable. For that reason, for joints you have to use bolts with marquise system, which have a bolt that is caught by a car that enters through a second hole. To install them, it is necessary to calculate that both perforations coincide.
• They go 2 bolts in each corner, 5 and 20 cm from the top edge, without bumping the slat that will hold the mattress. The bolt holes are made with a 7 mm wood drill bit and a 10 mm drill bit or carriage.
7- Round and sand
• With the router, round all edges and corners.
• Pass a soft sandpaper to remove the chips and improve the finish.
Milling machine
This machine is also known as a router or tupi, the good thing is that it can be leased, and it is a super good ally in carpentry work, because it makes recesses, cuts and cuts the wood, everything depends on the strawberry that is put on it.
8- Painting
• With a sponge roller, apply the polish to the glossy water on all the pieces and on all sides. The color chosen for the termination is a primary blue, close to the marine motifs. The paint is totally free of volatile organic compounds; ideal when it comes to children's furniture.
9- Arm the bed
• Affix the pieces with corner presses to join with the marquise bolts one of the sides with the headboard and then with the footboard, to finally fix the second side.
• To allow the wheels to turn, we attach them to the legs with flat head bolts, nylon socket and nylon lock. The location of the axis of the wheel is the measurement, from the ground, of its radius; including the shorter 7 cm of the leg.
• Place the mattress on the slats and then the mattress, which should be protruding approximately 4 cm.
• It is suggested to fix the bed base to the 1 × 2 slats, only in the center.
Zinus Arnav Modern Studio 10 Inch Platform 2000 Metal Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Wooden Slat Support / Good Design Award Winner, King
Twin bed plans
Material's list
The list of materials below assumes that all wood is good. You should buy extra wood to get rid of the defective parts. It is generally best to buy wider boards and cut them lengthwise into narrower pieces, such as buying 2x6 lumber and cutting the 2x3 pieces from them. You get much better wood that way. It may be better to buy five pieces of 2x10x8 'instead of the parts marked with an asterisk and cut everything from them.
Zinus Arnav Modern Studio 10 Inch Platform 2000 Metal Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Wooden Slat Support / Good Design Award Winner, King
Part Quantity Used for
Cut in section
Dimensions of the feet
The feet are practically identical to the headboard. If you are one of those people who prefer to hang their feet outside the end of the bed, leave without putting the top horizontal board and make the legs only 18 "high.
Rails of the bed
The side rail has a series of blocks in the inner corner. The purpose of these is to space the slats and prevent them from slipping out of position.
It is better to glue and screw the 1.5 "x1.5" brackets for the slats to the main part of the spar, to make sure it is solidly attached.
Assembly
Bed structures in general are designed to be dismantled when they move. In this bed structure, unscrewing the side rails allows us this trick.
The slats are placed between the side rails and held in place only by gravity. The blocks on the side stringers prevent them from slipping out of place.
The first and last slats need to cut notches in the corners to fit the posts.
Cut the 1x4 wood slats.
Pre-assemble the structure, then drill the holes for the screws through both parts. That way your holes for the screws will be aligned.
Use 3 "# 10 wood screws.
Material's list
The list of materials below assumes that all wood is good. You should buy extra wood to get rid of the defective parts. It is generally best to buy wider boards and cut them lengthwise into narrower pieces, such as buying 2x6 lumber and cutting the 2x3 pieces from them. You get much better wood that way. It may be better to buy five pieces of 2x10x8 'instead of the parts marked with an asterisk and cut everything from them.
Zinus Arnav Modern Studio 10 Inch Platform 2000 Metal Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Wooden Slat Support / Good Design Award Winner, King
Part Quantity Used for
- 2x8 x 8 ' 3 * Side stringers, also lower horizontal part of the headboard and feet.
- 2x3 x 8 ' 3 * To make poles
- 2x10 x 8 ' one * For the horizontal top part of the headboard and the feet.
- 2x2 x 8 ' two Supports for the slats on the side rails.
- 1x4 x 8 ' 6 For the lamas.
- 3/4 "tarugo 6 ' To cut off the plugs. Buy enough length to get 6 '(feet)
- 2.5 "# 10 wood screw 24 To mount the side rails
- 2.5 "# 10 wood screw 10 To screw the brackets for the slats on the side rails.
- Wood glue 100ml At least 100ml of wood glue.
Cut in section
- Notice how the slats rest on the shelf inside the side rails.
- Mattress 7 "thick.
- Lamas 3.5 "x0.75" x38.5 ", 12 pieces.
- The slats rest on the shelf of the side rails.
- Dimensions of the headboard
- All outer edges have a 1/4 "x1 / 4" bezel. This is best done with a few passes of a carpenter's brush (not the electric one).
- Headboard assembly
- The holes for the plugs are best drilled by fastening the header board and post together with sergeants and drilling the hole completely from the outside, as indicated in the diagram below.
- This part is glued after the rest of the headboard is glued.
- Tarugo 3 / 4x3.5 "
- Hold the post and the board together in position. Then drill through both.
- Do not drill the holes for the screws until you assemble the bed.
Dimensions of the feet
The feet are practically identical to the headboard. If you are one of those people who prefer to hang their feet outside the end of the bed, leave without putting the top horizontal board and make the legs only 18 "high.
Rails of the bed
The side rail has a series of blocks in the inner corner. The purpose of these is to space the slats and prevent them from slipping out of position.
It is better to glue and screw the 1.5 "x1.5" brackets for the slats to the main part of the spar, to make sure it is solidly attached.
- Stringer cut from a 2x8.
- Bevel the edges making several passes with a carpenter's brush.
- Stick wooden blocks with glue, 0.75 "x0.75" x2.5 "
- 2x2 stuck to the side of the crossbar. The 2x2 measures 74 "long
Assembly
Bed structures in general are designed to be dismantled when they move. In this bed structure, unscrewing the side rails allows us this trick.
The slats are placed between the side rails and held in place only by gravity. The blocks on the side stringers prevent them from slipping out of place.
The first and last slats need to cut notches in the corners to fit the posts.
Cut the 1x4 wood slats.
Pre-assemble the structure, then drill the holes for the screws through both parts. That way your holes for the screws will be aligned.
Use 3 "# 10 wood screws.
Friday, February 15, 2019
Best Price Mattress Twin XL Bed Frame - 14 Inch Metal Platform Beds [Model E] w/ Steel Slat Support (No Box Spring Needed), White
How to make a removable bed
We teach you step by step to make a removable wooden bed. We will make the whole structure that we can see without problems to take the bed to another site.
We will make the complete structure of a bed starting from several tables and wooden blocks and with a carpentry technique that will allow us to assemble all the pieces together without using any fixing element. This will make disassembling and transporting it almost, almost child's play.
Making several cuts to half wood we will get that the crossbars and the legs of the bed are mounted easily without any element of union, as if it were a puzzle, fitting some pieces in others with the hand, without tools .
Best Price Mattress Twin XL Bed Frame - 14 Inch Metal Platform Beds [Model E] w/ Steel Slat Support (No Box Spring Needed), White
The bed base will also be very basic so that when it comes to dismantling and transporting the bed, we only have to roll up all the beds of the bed base and disengage the legs and the crossbars with our hands.
Tools
Materials
Step by step to make a removable bed
Step 1
We commission the tables with which we will build the structure of the bed to the extent of our mattress . The first thing we have to do is cut with the circular saw strips that will serve as support for the mattress.
Step 2
We already have all the pieces that we need, so we started working on the crossbars of the bed, using the jigsaw to cut half the wood.
Step 3
The chisel and the mallet will help us complete the job.
Step 4
We reduce and smooth with the electric brush the surface of the studs in which we will work next to turn them into the legs of our bed.
Step 5
Being a hardwood block before making the cuts to half wood we will have to make some holes with the drill and spindle drill bit .
Step 6
Now, yes, we go through the holes with the jigsaw until we get the notches we need so that these pieces fit perfectly with the crossbars.
Step 7
We finish the cuts with the rasp and then we sand all the pieces of the bed.
Step 8
We make holes in the slats that will support the mattress.
Step 9
With lag screws we fix the slats to the crossbars.
Step 10
We assemble piece by piece , as if it were a puzzle, our new bed.
Step 11
As we want it to be completely removable and easy to transport, we are also going to make the slatted base in the manner of slats that we join together with blinds.
Step 12
We support the bed frame on the bed and we can only place the mattress and enjoy a piece that from now on will accompany us without problems wherever we go.
Step 13
Completed work! In this simple way we have created the structure of a removable bed . A different and practical carpentry work.
We teach you step by step to make a removable wooden bed. We will make the whole structure that we can see without problems to take the bed to another site.
We will make the complete structure of a bed starting from several tables and wooden blocks and with a carpentry technique that will allow us to assemble all the pieces together without using any fixing element. This will make disassembling and transporting it almost, almost child's play.
Making several cuts to half wood we will get that the crossbars and the legs of the bed are mounted easily without any element of union, as if it were a puzzle, fitting some pieces in others with the hand, without tools .
Best Price Mattress Twin XL Bed Frame - 14 Inch Metal Platform Beds [Model E] w/ Steel Slat Support (No Box Spring Needed), White
The bed base will also be very basic so that when it comes to dismantling and transporting the bed, we only have to roll up all the beds of the bed base and disengage the legs and the crossbars with our hands.
Tools
- Electric brush
- Vaccum cleaner
- keyhole saw
- Jaws
- Squad
- Cutting blade for wood
- circular saw
- Chisel
- Mace
- Column drill
- Ø 30mm blade shovel
- Rasp
- Orbital sander
- Sandpaper grain medium and fine
- Driver drill
- Drill bit for wood diameter 5
- Electric stapler.
Materials
- Planks of oak of 17x30mm and 90x90mm
- 4x50mm lag screws
- 10mm thick poplar plywood
- Blind tape
- 10mm staples
Step by step to make a removable bed
Step 1
We commission the tables with which we will build the structure of the bed to the extent of our mattress . The first thing we have to do is cut with the circular saw strips that will serve as support for the mattress.
Step 2
We already have all the pieces that we need, so we started working on the crossbars of the bed, using the jigsaw to cut half the wood.
Step 3
The chisel and the mallet will help us complete the job.
Step 4
We reduce and smooth with the electric brush the surface of the studs in which we will work next to turn them into the legs of our bed.
Step 5
Being a hardwood block before making the cuts to half wood we will have to make some holes with the drill and spindle drill bit .
Step 6
Now, yes, we go through the holes with the jigsaw until we get the notches we need so that these pieces fit perfectly with the crossbars.
Step 7
We finish the cuts with the rasp and then we sand all the pieces of the bed.
Step 8
We make holes in the slats that will support the mattress.
Step 9
With lag screws we fix the slats to the crossbars.
Step 10
We assemble piece by piece , as if it were a puzzle, our new bed.
Step 11
As we want it to be completely removable and easy to transport, we are also going to make the slatted base in the manner of slats that we join together with blinds.
Step 12
We support the bed frame on the bed and we can only place the mattress and enjoy a piece that from now on will accompany us without problems wherever we go.
Step 13
Completed work! In this simple way we have created the structure of a removable bed . A different and practical carpentry work.
Zinus Lorelei 14 Inch Platforma Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Steel Slat Support, Twin
HOW TO MAKE AN OLD BED FRAMEWORK IN A PORCH OSCILLATION
Reuse an antique bed frame on a swing to create a comfortable outdoor living space on your sunroom or on the back porch. Children and adults will be attracted to the cozy respite when they fill it with pillows and soft bedding. Building materials are available at your local home improvement store. Although an adult can perform the necessary steps to transform the bed, two adults are needed to hang the complete swing.
Zinus Lorelei 14 Inch Platforma Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Steel Slat Support, Twin
Things you will need
Step 1
Sand the frame of the bed with an electric sander and wipe the excess dust with a cloth. Paint or stain the frame of the desired color. Allow the frame to dry completely. You can skip this step if you like the original color of the bed frame.
Step 2
Cut 4 keys from the 2 by 4 tables with a saw if your previous bed frame does not have existing clamps. These should be the same width as the inside of the frame of the bed. Place the clamps at an equal distance through the frame of the bed and screw them with wood screws.
Step 3
Cut the plywood according to the dimensions of the frame of your bed to form the lower support of the swing. Place the plywood on the supports. Secure the plate in place with 1 1/4-inch screws.
Stage 4
Drill retentive pin size holes 5 1/2 inches from each corner on each side of the bed frame, totaling 8 holes. Insert a lag eye bolt into each hole. Slide a screwdriver through the eye of each bolt and use it as a lever to tighten the bolts.
Step 5
Drill four holes of the same diameter as the lag eye bolts on the roof rafters where the porch swing will hang. These holes should correspond to the corners of the bed frame. Insert 4 delayed eye bolts into the holes and tighten them.
Step 6
Pass a chain through an eye bolt from the ceiling and down through the 2 bolts into a corner of the bed frame. Connect the ends of the chain with a quick link or carabiner, forming a triangle with the chain in the corner. Repeat for the remaining corners and roof bolts.
Step 7
Adjust the chains so that the swing is uniform, using the level if necessary. Place the mattress on the frame of the bed and cover it with bedding and pillows.
Things you will need
Tip
HOW TO MAKE AN UPHOLSTERED HEADBOARD
Do you need a new headboard? Hands on, then;) Transform a wooden board with foam, wadding and a nice fabric and create your own custom bed headboard. To make it more special, choose an equidistant button as if it were a tufted upholstery.
TOOLS
MATERIALS
STEP BY STEP
1. MAKE THE HOLES
To start creating this homemade headboard you have to make several holes in the wooden board, which will serve you to later attach the buttons to the headboard and imitate the upholstered capitoné. To do this, divide the wood into a grid with the help of a flexometer and mark the position of the buttons at the intersections between the squares. When you have it, use a drill and a spade bit to make them.
Marking the position of the holes in the wood to put the buttons
Drill making holes in the wood
2. PLACE THE FOAM AND WADDING
Put the wooden board, already bored, on a foam board and mark its outline. Cut the foam to that size and, with the foam still underneath, pass a marker through the holes in the wood to mark the same holes in the foam. Remove the wood and use a cutter to open the holes in the foam: you will need them to pass the buttons. When finished, stick the foam on the wood with the help of a heat-set gun.
Once you have made that step, place the headboard over the wadding and cut a piece enough to cover the entire surface. Staple the wadding on the back of the headboard with a manual stapler and cut the excess with scissors.
The wadding will help you to soften the edges of the upholstery.
3. STAPLE THE FABRIC
Repeat the operation, but with the fabric. Put the headboard over, cut a piece that covers and staple with a manual stapler, cutting the excess.
Stapler fixing the fabric to the wood
4. FIX THE BUTTONS
To finish this project, you have to fix the buttons to the headboard. Use a needle to attach them to the headboard. The first thing you have to do is cut pieces of thread and pass them through the buttons. Then, pass the needle through a hole, from the front to the back, without passing it whole, leaving the hole out. Pass the two ends of the thread through the hojal and pass the needle. Take the threads on the back of the headboard and pull hard so that the button is slightly sunken. To finish putting the button, staple the threads to the wood behind the headboard. Repeat the operation by placing a button in each hole you have made.
Result of the cabiner
Ready! What do you think of the result? Make a spectacular headboard is quite simple, as you see ... Dare!
Reuse an antique bed frame on a swing to create a comfortable outdoor living space on your sunroom or on the back porch. Children and adults will be attracted to the cozy respite when they fill it with pillows and soft bedding. Building materials are available at your local home improvement store. Although an adult can perform the necessary steps to transform the bed, two adults are needed to hang the complete swing.
Zinus Lorelei 14 Inch Platforma Bed Frame / Mattress Foundation / No Box Spring Needed / Steel Slat Support, Twin
Things you will need
Step 1
Sand the frame of the bed with an electric sander and wipe the excess dust with a cloth. Paint or stain the frame of the desired color. Allow the frame to dry completely. You can skip this step if you like the original color of the bed frame.
Step 2
Cut 4 keys from the 2 by 4 tables with a saw if your previous bed frame does not have existing clamps. These should be the same width as the inside of the frame of the bed. Place the clamps at an equal distance through the frame of the bed and screw them with wood screws.
Step 3
Cut the plywood according to the dimensions of the frame of your bed to form the lower support of the swing. Place the plywood on the supports. Secure the plate in place with 1 1/4-inch screws.
Stage 4
Drill retentive pin size holes 5 1/2 inches from each corner on each side of the bed frame, totaling 8 holes. Insert a lag eye bolt into each hole. Slide a screwdriver through the eye of each bolt and use it as a lever to tighten the bolts.
Step 5
Drill four holes of the same diameter as the lag eye bolts on the roof rafters where the porch swing will hang. These holes should correspond to the corners of the bed frame. Insert 4 delayed eye bolts into the holes and tighten them.
Step 6
Pass a chain through an eye bolt from the ceiling and down through the 2 bolts into a corner of the bed frame. Connect the ends of the chain with a quick link or carabiner, forming a triangle with the chain in the corner. Repeat for the remaining corners and roof bolts.
Step 7
Adjust the chains so that the swing is uniform, using the level if necessary. Place the mattress on the frame of the bed and cover it with bedding and pillows.
Things you will need
- Bed structure without headboard or footboard
- Electric sander
- Cloth
- Paint or stain
- Mountain range
- 4 wooden boards, 2 inches by 4 inches
- 1 1/4-inch wood screws
- Punch out
- Screwdriver
- 12 coach screws
- 4 chain lengths
- 4 quick links or carabiners
- level
- Mattress
- Bed
- Pillows
Tip
- Place the bed frame on two trestles to hold it while hanging the chains.
HOW TO MAKE AN UPHOLSTERED HEADBOARD
Do you need a new headboard? Hands on, then;) Transform a wooden board with foam, wadding and a nice fabric and create your own custom bed headboard. To make it more special, choose an equidistant button as if it were a tufted upholstery.
TOOLS
- Needle
- Cutter
- Flexometer
- Manual stapler
- 60W heat gun
- Marker pen
- Drill
- Scissors
MATERIALS
- Buttons
- Foam
- Wadding
- Thread
- Wooden board
- Cloth
STEP BY STEP
1. MAKE THE HOLES
To start creating this homemade headboard you have to make several holes in the wooden board, which will serve you to later attach the buttons to the headboard and imitate the upholstered capitoné. To do this, divide the wood into a grid with the help of a flexometer and mark the position of the buttons at the intersections between the squares. When you have it, use a drill and a spade bit to make them.
Marking the position of the holes in the wood to put the buttons
Drill making holes in the wood
2. PLACE THE FOAM AND WADDING
Put the wooden board, already bored, on a foam board and mark its outline. Cut the foam to that size and, with the foam still underneath, pass a marker through the holes in the wood to mark the same holes in the foam. Remove the wood and use a cutter to open the holes in the foam: you will need them to pass the buttons. When finished, stick the foam on the wood with the help of a heat-set gun.
Once you have made that step, place the headboard over the wadding and cut a piece enough to cover the entire surface. Staple the wadding on the back of the headboard with a manual stapler and cut the excess with scissors.
The wadding will help you to soften the edges of the upholstery.
- Cutter cutting the foam
- Marker marking the position of the buttons in the foam
- Cutter cutting the foam
- Thermofilm gun by applying hot glue to stick the foam
- Stapling of wadding
- Scissors cutting the excess of wadding
3. STAPLE THE FABRIC
Repeat the operation, but with the fabric. Put the headboard over, cut a piece that covers and staple with a manual stapler, cutting the excess.
Stapler fixing the fabric to the wood
4. FIX THE BUTTONS
To finish this project, you have to fix the buttons to the headboard. Use a needle to attach them to the headboard. The first thing you have to do is cut pieces of thread and pass them through the buttons. Then, pass the needle through a hole, from the front to the back, without passing it whole, leaving the hole out. Pass the two ends of the thread through the hojal and pass the needle. Take the threads on the back of the headboard and pull hard so that the button is slightly sunken. To finish putting the button, staple the threads to the wood behind the headboard. Repeat the operation by placing a button in each hole you have made.
Result of the cabiner
Ready! What do you think of the result? Make a spectacular headboard is quite simple, as you see ... Dare!
Best Price Mattress Full Bed Frame - 18 Inch Metal Platform Beds w/ Heavy Duty Steel Slat Mattress Foundation (No Box Spring Needed), Black
How to make a canopy bed frame
A frame of the canopy bed is a romantic and attractive bed treatment that can dress any room. If you always wanted a canopy bed frame, but assumed it would be too expensive, there are affordable ways to create a canopy bed frame. Learn how to make a canopy bed frame from which you can hang cloth panels to make a canopy bed of any type of bed.
Instructions
How to make a headboard with wooden slats step by step
If you are looking for a headboard that is original, practical and economical, look no further. With this tutorial step by step you will learn how to make a headboard with wooden slats and shelves that are inserted between them. Show off furniture made by you with this DIY project.
Best Price Mattress Full Bed Frame - 18 Inch Metal Platform Beds w/ Heavy Duty Steel Slat Mattress Foundation (No Box Spring Needed), Black
Normally the headboards have a decorative function, but they can also become a practical solution for small bedrooms. The next headboard made with wooden slats has the advantage that it incorporates practical shelves. In this way, we have a place to place a lamp or to leave our personal items, without having to purchase extra furniture.
headboard with wooden slats
Tools and materials
materials to make a headboard with slats
In the following list you will find the tools and materials that are needed to make a headboard with wooden slats like the one in this tutorial:
On the other hand, in the following ManoMano shopping cart simulation you will find a selection of tools and materials that have been used.
For its execution you will need a working day because the headboard assembly has been made in such a way that the screws are hidden. This process requires a series of steps that prolong the assembly time.
Finally, your level of difficulty is medium since it requires some practice with the use of power tools.
Tutorial to make a headboard with wooden slats
This headboard has the advantage that shelves can be inserted between the wooden slats. In addition, since they are not fixed shelves, they can vary in position to adapt to our storage needs. For that reason, it is a very useful and versatile furniture, and ideal for small spaces or tight budgets. To do it yourself you must follow the following steps:
1.- Sanding the slats
The first step will be to sand the wooden slats with a sander to remove imperfections, chips and roughness. It is recommended to use a medium grain sandpaper and finish with a fine grain sandpaper. In this way a much softer finish to the touch is achieved.
sanding wood slats
2.- Make the outer frame of the headboard
The next step will be to cut the wooden slats at a 45º angle with the miter saw to make the outer frame of the headboard . Since the bed is 90 cm wide, two slats of 140 cm long and another two of 60 cm have been cut for the height, so that there is enough slack on both sides.
Next, the miter cut ends will be glued and sergeants will be placed for angles that will be removed once the glue has dried.
frame with wooden slats
3.- Assemble the interior slats
To provide a decorative effect to this headboard, the slats have been arranged horizontally and diagonally. Between the horizontal slats the shelves can be inserted, while the diagonals fulfill a purely decorative function.
The assembly of the internal slats has been done in such a way that no screws are visible. For this, the following steps have been followed:
Between the horizontal slats a space of 2 cm and of 6 cm between the diagonals has been left. The following image shows how the internal battens have been screwed up to complete the interior of the headboard.
headboard with wooden slats
As the battens are screwed in, there comes a time when there is no room inside to put the drill and drill. In this case, the slats will be joined by staples at the back of the headboard.
headboard with wooden slats
4.- Make the shelves
Once the headboard is assembled, shelves will be made to be inserted in the slots. For this purpose, with a telescopic miter saw three pine boards of 35x15x1.8 cm, of 25x20x1.8 cm and of 15x20x1.8 cm, will be cut.
If you do not have a telescopic miter saw, you can also use a circular saw or a jigsaw .
shelves for a headboard with wooden slats
5.- Paint and protect the wood
The last step will be to paint and protect the wood . To this end, the wood of the headboard has been varnished with clear varnish in spray, since with this format it is easier to reach all the grooves and nooks and crannies.
On the other hand, the shelves have each been painted a different color, but all within the range of blues. In this way, a very decorative effect is obtained.
protect and paint a headboard with wooden slats
After following all the steps indicated above, this will remain the DIY headboard.
headboard with DIY wood slats
As you can see, it does not lack detail:
The wood in a natural tone gives an elegant, modern and design touch
A single piece of furniture fulfills the function of two different ones, saving space and money
Adjustable shelves make it practical and versatile
headboard with wooden slats
Did you like this idea to make a headboard with wooden slats and adjustable shelves? In any case, do not miss these other ideas to make a headboard with pallets and a bed with pallets . They are ideal to show your friends and family your skills as handyman.
A frame of the canopy bed is a romantic and attractive bed treatment that can dress any room. If you always wanted a canopy bed frame, but assumed it would be too expensive, there are affordable ways to create a canopy bed frame. Learn how to make a canopy bed frame from which you can hang cloth panels to make a canopy bed of any type of bed.
Instructions
- 1 Measure the length and width of the bed. Write down these numbers.
- 2 Cut two lengths of PVC pipe in the width measurement taken in Step 1. Cut two lengths of PVC pipe in the length measurement taken in Step 1. Present the cut ends of the pipe so that they are smooth.
- 3 Install ceiling hooks on the ceiling by screwing the hooks over each corner of the bed.
- 4 Cut eight 12-inch lengths of fishing line. Tie the ends of each length of fishing line securely and securely together to make eight turns of fishing line.
- 5 Place two line loops on each hook that hangs from the ceiling.
- 6 Place the PVC pipes on the fishing line loops. The two longitudinal lengths of PVC pipe hang from the fishing line above the loops on the sides of the bed. The two lengths of PVC tubing hang from the fishing line loops above the top and bottom of the bed to finish the frame of the four-poster bed.
How to make a headboard with wooden slats step by step
If you are looking for a headboard that is original, practical and economical, look no further. With this tutorial step by step you will learn how to make a headboard with wooden slats and shelves that are inserted between them. Show off furniture made by you with this DIY project.
Best Price Mattress Full Bed Frame - 18 Inch Metal Platform Beds w/ Heavy Duty Steel Slat Mattress Foundation (No Box Spring Needed), Black
Normally the headboards have a decorative function, but they can also become a practical solution for small bedrooms. The next headboard made with wooden slats has the advantage that it incorporates practical shelves. In this way, we have a place to place a lamp or to leave our personal items, without having to purchase extra furniture.
headboard with wooden slats
Tools and materials
materials to make a headboard with slats
In the following list you will find the tools and materials that are needed to make a headboard with wooden slats like the one in this tutorial:
- Miter saw
- Sander
- Driver drill
- Screwdriver
- Japanese saw
- Stapler
- Sergeants for angles
- 8 spruce strips of 200 × 3.8 × 3.8 cm and a pine board of 200x30x1.8 cm
- Wood screws
- Ears of wood
- Carpenter's tail
- Painting for indoor furniture
- Spray varnish
- Brush
- Cost, duration and difficulty
On the other hand, in the following ManoMano shopping cart simulation you will find a selection of tools and materials that have been used.
For its execution you will need a working day because the headboard assembly has been made in such a way that the screws are hidden. This process requires a series of steps that prolong the assembly time.
Finally, your level of difficulty is medium since it requires some practice with the use of power tools.
Tutorial to make a headboard with wooden slats
This headboard has the advantage that shelves can be inserted between the wooden slats. In addition, since they are not fixed shelves, they can vary in position to adapt to our storage needs. For that reason, it is a very useful and versatile furniture, and ideal for small spaces or tight budgets. To do it yourself you must follow the following steps:
1.- Sanding the slats
The first step will be to sand the wooden slats with a sander to remove imperfections, chips and roughness. It is recommended to use a medium grain sandpaper and finish with a fine grain sandpaper. In this way a much softer finish to the touch is achieved.
sanding wood slats
2.- Make the outer frame of the headboard
The next step will be to cut the wooden slats at a 45º angle with the miter saw to make the outer frame of the headboard . Since the bed is 90 cm wide, two slats of 140 cm long and another two of 60 cm have been cut for the height, so that there is enough slack on both sides.
Next, the miter cut ends will be glued and sergeants will be placed for angles that will be removed once the glue has dried.
frame with wooden slats
3.- Assemble the interior slats
To provide a decorative effect to this headboard, the slats have been arranged horizontally and diagonally. Between the horizontal slats the shelves can be inserted, while the diagonals fulfill a purely decorative function.
The assembly of the internal slats has been done in such a way that no screws are visible. For this, the following steps have been followed:
- Drill the outer frame with a 6mm wood drill bit, but only up to half its thickness.
- Insert a lag bolt and screw to the inside lath
- Hide the hole by inserting a wooden dowel and a few drops of carpenter's glue to fix it
- Cut the excess part of the spike with the Japanese saw, since it allows to make cuts flush with the wood
- hidden assembly trick
Between the horizontal slats a space of 2 cm and of 6 cm between the diagonals has been left. The following image shows how the internal battens have been screwed up to complete the interior of the headboard.
headboard with wooden slats
As the battens are screwed in, there comes a time when there is no room inside to put the drill and drill. In this case, the slats will be joined by staples at the back of the headboard.
headboard with wooden slats
4.- Make the shelves
Once the headboard is assembled, shelves will be made to be inserted in the slots. For this purpose, with a telescopic miter saw three pine boards of 35x15x1.8 cm, of 25x20x1.8 cm and of 15x20x1.8 cm, will be cut.
If you do not have a telescopic miter saw, you can also use a circular saw or a jigsaw .
shelves for a headboard with wooden slats
5.- Paint and protect the wood
The last step will be to paint and protect the wood . To this end, the wood of the headboard has been varnished with clear varnish in spray, since with this format it is easier to reach all the grooves and nooks and crannies.
On the other hand, the shelves have each been painted a different color, but all within the range of blues. In this way, a very decorative effect is obtained.
protect and paint a headboard with wooden slats
After following all the steps indicated above, this will remain the DIY headboard.
headboard with DIY wood slats
As you can see, it does not lack detail:
The wood in a natural tone gives an elegant, modern and design touch
A single piece of furniture fulfills the function of two different ones, saving space and money
Adjustable shelves make it practical and versatile
headboard with wooden slats
Did you like this idea to make a headboard with wooden slats and adjustable shelves? In any case, do not miss these other ideas to make a headboard with pallets and a bed with pallets . They are ideal to show your friends and family your skills as handyman.
DUMEE Queen Size Metal Bed Frame Platform Modern American Style Mattress Foundation with Headboard and Footboard Box Spring Replacement Black Textured
Tutorial to make the most wonderful sofa bed of all
There was a corner in our patio that needed to be filled with something, and we came up with a great idea: to build something that would serve to sit us down and also to lay down!
The five important details:
The basic details of how we built it:
1. Decide which is the size you want (ours is 1200 x 1400 x 380)
2. The framework:
We use 5 × 10 cm pine boards. and we made frames that coincided with our measurements.
We use 2 pieces for the edges and 3 for the remaining edges. Also one that we put in the middle to have more support.
You must think about where you should add this support according to the size of what you are building.
We use the nailer to assemble all the pieces, and you can ask that you cut the wood to size in almost all the stores that sell this type of materials.
DUMEE Queen Size Metal Bed Frame Platform Modern American Style Mattress Foundation with Headboard and Footboard Box Spring Replacement Black Textured
Remember to subtract the width of each piece of wood from the width (or length) measurements for the 3 pieces of wood that will go in between. (You can see it below)
We tested it to make sure it fit well, and then screwed it to the floor. We also screw the pieces of wood together.
Other alternatives would be to join the agglomerated wood to the base and screw wheels to make a bed that can move or screw this agglomerated wood to the base and then screw the frame to it to make it more resistant to the inclemency of the weather and so that You can also use the interior to store things. Just add a hinge on the top!
3. The sides.
Then we joined the recycled wood that we had cut according to the size of the frame once it had already been screwed.
We joined it by screwing from the inside so that the screws could not be seen.
We left the wood as it was because we wanted it to have that old look.
4. The top part.
Once the part of the sides were ready, we measured the inside and then cut a piece of custom-made chipboard.
You may notice that we made the frame a little lower than the wooden sides so that part of the "bed" (the upholstered part) looks better.
You could build a frame that is the same height as the sides so that the upholstered part is on top. If you wanted to join the hinges to have a place to store things in the bottom, you would have to do it this way.
It is difficult for us to take out the top part, because it fits very well. But it is what we wanted.
At this point you have already achieved an incredible scenario: Perfect for a 4 year old who has just received a Christmas toy microphone and who does MANY shows!
There was a corner in our patio that needed to be filled with something, and we came up with a great idea: to build something that would serve to sit us down and also to lay down!
The five important details:
- - We built a frame of the size that we wanted to adjust it to the floor we already had.
- - We use recycled wood to hide the frame.
- - We use agglomerated wood to create the upper part of the frame.
- - We put foam on the wood and then covered it with an old cloth that we had.
- - We made that the covers could be removed to be washed.
The basic details of how we built it:
1. Decide which is the size you want (ours is 1200 x 1400 x 380)
2. The framework:
We use 5 × 10 cm pine boards. and we made frames that coincided with our measurements.
We use 2 pieces for the edges and 3 for the remaining edges. Also one that we put in the middle to have more support.
You must think about where you should add this support according to the size of what you are building.
We use the nailer to assemble all the pieces, and you can ask that you cut the wood to size in almost all the stores that sell this type of materials.
DUMEE Queen Size Metal Bed Frame Platform Modern American Style Mattress Foundation with Headboard and Footboard Box Spring Replacement Black Textured
Remember to subtract the width of each piece of wood from the width (or length) measurements for the 3 pieces of wood that will go in between. (You can see it below)
We tested it to make sure it fit well, and then screwed it to the floor. We also screw the pieces of wood together.
Other alternatives would be to join the agglomerated wood to the base and screw wheels to make a bed that can move or screw this agglomerated wood to the base and then screw the frame to it to make it more resistant to the inclemency of the weather and so that You can also use the interior to store things. Just add a hinge on the top!
3. The sides.
Then we joined the recycled wood that we had cut according to the size of the frame once it had already been screwed.
We joined it by screwing from the inside so that the screws could not be seen.
We left the wood as it was because we wanted it to have that old look.
4. The top part.
Once the part of the sides were ready, we measured the inside and then cut a piece of custom-made chipboard.
You may notice that we made the frame a little lower than the wooden sides so that part of the "bed" (the upholstered part) looks better.
You could build a frame that is the same height as the sides so that the upholstered part is on top. If you wanted to join the hinges to have a place to store things in the bottom, you would have to do it this way.
It is difficult for us to take out the top part, because it fits very well. But it is what we wanted.
At this point you have already achieved an incredible scenario: Perfect for a 4 year old who has just received a Christmas toy microphone and who does MANY shows!
SLEEPLACE 18 Inch Tall Heavy Duty Steel Slat Bed Frame ST-3000 (Full)
We teach you how to make your own floating bed, do not miss it.
Looking for originality when decorating our house does not have to be synonymous with spending a lot of money buying furniture in exclusive stores. We always insist that there are many options at our reach, we just need a couple of good ideas and a little patience and skill to be able to manufacture the exclusive furniture ourselves.
The economic cost is much lower and although we take a couple of days to manufacture it, it will be an exclusive work that we can enjoy for many years . Today we want to show you how to build the base so that a bed seems floating . Of all the DIY we have developed, this is not exactly the simplest, however the result is spectacular and you just need a little patience.
SLEEPLACE 18 Inch Tall Heavy Duty Steel Slat Bed Frame ST-3000 (Full)
We leave you the photographs explaining step by step the procedure to get your own floating bed, attentive!
The lower base is made with slats 5 cm wide x 20 cm high and the upper frame with slats 5 cm wide x 10 cm high. Therefore, the measurement of the base will be: 120 cm x 170 cm x 20 cm and the measurement of the top frame will be: 170 cm x 2.10 cm x 10 cm. These are the corresponding measures for a mattress of 150 cm x 190 cm.
This is the final result:
Looking for originality when decorating our house does not have to be synonymous with spending a lot of money buying furniture in exclusive stores. We always insist that there are many options at our reach, we just need a couple of good ideas and a little patience and skill to be able to manufacture the exclusive furniture ourselves.
The economic cost is much lower and although we take a couple of days to manufacture it, it will be an exclusive work that we can enjoy for many years . Today we want to show you how to build the base so that a bed seems floating . Of all the DIY we have developed, this is not exactly the simplest, however the result is spectacular and you just need a little patience.
SLEEPLACE 18 Inch Tall Heavy Duty Steel Slat Bed Frame ST-3000 (Full)
We leave you the photographs explaining step by step the procedure to get your own floating bed, attentive!
- These are the basic planes of the two bases that we need.
- Both frames are joined at the top center.
The lower base is made with slats 5 cm wide x 20 cm high and the upper frame with slats 5 cm wide x 10 cm high. Therefore, the measurement of the base will be: 120 cm x 170 cm x 20 cm and the measurement of the top frame will be: 170 cm x 2.10 cm x 10 cm. These are the corresponding measures for a mattress of 150 cm x 190 cm.
- We place a wooden plank on the base to achieve a flat and smooth surface.
- We place the headboard on the top, where we have joined the two main structures.
- The measurements of the headboard will be 170 cm x 100 cm x 5 cm.
- Once we put everything together, we sanded it to be able to paint it.
- In this case a mahogany wood color was chosen to be able to give contrast with the room, but obviously the color is optional.
- We placed on the edge of the structure, at the bottom, a string of LED lights of 7 meters bordering it as shown in the photograph.
This is the final result:
- You already have a floating bed for your bedroom, enjoy it!
Zinus 12 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation, Platform Bed Frame, Box Spring Replacement, Quiet Noise-Free, Twin
How to make a wooden base for a bed
Building your own wooden base for an average-sized bed instead of buying one in a store will save you money. Bed bases or frames raise mattresses 6 or 8 inches (15.24 or 20.32 cm) from the floor so that they are at a more comfortable level when people lie down and get up.
Instructions
Cut the pieces for the base of your bed
Cut two 6-foot x 9-inch pieces (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) from the 2 x 4-inch boards (5.08 x 10.16 cm) with the circular saw to make part of the frame.
Cut four pieces of 4 feet x 9 inches (1.22 mx 22.86 cm) from the 2 x 4 inch boards (5.08 x 10.16 cm)
Cut the four pieces of 6 feet x 4 x 4 inches (1.83 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) in half to make the legs that will be the frame support.
Cut the plywood board neatly and turn it into a piece of 5 x 6 feet x 9 inches (1.52 x 1.83 mx 22.86 cm), which will be the top part of the frame.
Sand all the edges of the pieces you have cut. Apply ink or paint to wood and let it dry.
Zinus 12 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation, Platform Bed Frame, Box Spring Replacement, Quiet Noise-Free, Twin
Assemble the base of the bed
Find a solid surface and place the two 6-by-9-inch pieces (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) on the edge, parallel to each other, with a separation of 5 feet (1.52 m). Complete a rectangle by placing the two pieces of 4 feet x 9 inches (1.22 mx 22.86 cm) between the other two. Place 3 2 1/2 inch (6,35 cm) screws through the ends of each of the long pieces and attach them to the shorter pieces.
Add support beams into the frame using two other 2 x 4 pieces (5.08 x 10.16 cm). Place them parallel to the shorter pieces of the frame. Place them inside the frame with a even space between beam and beam and attach them to the frame. Place two 2 1/2 inch (6,35 cm) screws through the 6-foot x 9-inch (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) sides and attach them to the support beams.
Place a piece of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) against each of the inside corners of the frame to be the legs of the bed. Place 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through the frame to secure them in place. Use two screws on each side of the frame that is in contact with the leg.
Place another piece of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) in the center of each of the long pieces on the sides of the frame. Place four 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through the outside of the frame to secure them.
Use the remaining two pieces of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) to place legs in the center of the frame. Place a 4 x 4 piece (10.16 x 10.16 cm) in the center of the support beams closest to the outer frame. Place four 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through each support beam to secure them.
Turn the complete part of your frame over its legs and place the piece of plywood over it so that it is aligned. Place a 1 1/2 inch (3.81 cm) screw through the plywood along the edges and the support beams to secure it to the frame.
Add more strength to the legs by placing two 1 1/2 inch (3.81 cm) screws through the plywood to secure them. Your new bed base is ready for a mattress.
You will need to
Building your own wooden base for an average-sized bed instead of buying one in a store will save you money. Bed bases or frames raise mattresses 6 or 8 inches (15.24 or 20.32 cm) from the floor so that they are at a more comfortable level when people lie down and get up.
Instructions
Cut the pieces for the base of your bed
Cut two 6-foot x 9-inch pieces (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) from the 2 x 4-inch boards (5.08 x 10.16 cm) with the circular saw to make part of the frame.
Cut four pieces of 4 feet x 9 inches (1.22 mx 22.86 cm) from the 2 x 4 inch boards (5.08 x 10.16 cm)
Cut the four pieces of 6 feet x 4 x 4 inches (1.83 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) in half to make the legs that will be the frame support.
Cut the plywood board neatly and turn it into a piece of 5 x 6 feet x 9 inches (1.52 x 1.83 mx 22.86 cm), which will be the top part of the frame.
Sand all the edges of the pieces you have cut. Apply ink or paint to wood and let it dry.
Zinus 12 Inch SmartBase Mattress Foundation, Platform Bed Frame, Box Spring Replacement, Quiet Noise-Free, Twin
Assemble the base of the bed
Find a solid surface and place the two 6-by-9-inch pieces (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) on the edge, parallel to each other, with a separation of 5 feet (1.52 m). Complete a rectangle by placing the two pieces of 4 feet x 9 inches (1.22 mx 22.86 cm) between the other two. Place 3 2 1/2 inch (6,35 cm) screws through the ends of each of the long pieces and attach them to the shorter pieces.
Add support beams into the frame using two other 2 x 4 pieces (5.08 x 10.16 cm). Place them parallel to the shorter pieces of the frame. Place them inside the frame with a even space between beam and beam and attach them to the frame. Place two 2 1/2 inch (6,35 cm) screws through the 6-foot x 9-inch (1.83 mx 22.86 cm) sides and attach them to the support beams.
Place a piece of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) against each of the inside corners of the frame to be the legs of the bed. Place 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through the frame to secure them in place. Use two screws on each side of the frame that is in contact with the leg.
Place another piece of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) in the center of each of the long pieces on the sides of the frame. Place four 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through the outside of the frame to secure them.
Use the remaining two pieces of 3 feet x 4 x 4 inches (0.91 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm) to place legs in the center of the frame. Place a 4 x 4 piece (10.16 x 10.16 cm) in the center of the support beams closest to the outer frame. Place four 2 1/2 inch (6.35 cm) screws through each support beam to secure them.
Turn the complete part of your frame over its legs and place the piece of plywood over it so that it is aligned. Place a 1 1/2 inch (3.81 cm) screw through the plywood along the edges and the support beams to secure it to the frame.
Add more strength to the legs by placing two 1 1/2 inch (3.81 cm) screws through the plywood to secure them. Your new bed base is ready for a mattress.
You will need to
- 6 tables of 7 feet x 2 x 4 inches (2.13 mx 5.08 x 10.16 cm)
- 4 tables of 6 feet x 4 x 4 inches (1.83 mx 10.16 x 10.16 cm)
- 1 plywood board with high quality soft finish of 5 x 10 feet x 3/4 inches (1.52 x 3.05 mx 1.90 cm)
- A tape measure
- A circular saw
- Sandpaper
- Painting or tincture for wood
- Screws for wood of 2 1/2 and 1 1/2 inches (6,35 and 3,81 cm)
- A screwdriver
ZIYOO 14 inch Heavy Duty Steel Slat Platform Bed Frame, Non-Slip Design, Strengthen Support Mattress Foundation, Quiet Noise Free, Full
3 ways to make a wooden bed
Do you have a rickety metal bed? Or maybe you have the mattress on the floor without a bed. Have you considered getting a wooden bed? You can add a lot of charm to your room and get rid of the annoying squeaks. However, you should bear in mind that they are not cheap. We present a simple plan to build your own wooden bed that you can modify for any size (or height!) You want.
ZIYOO 14 inch Heavy Duty Steel Slat Platform Bed Frame, Non-Slip Design, Strengthen Support Mattress Foundation, Quiet Noise Free, Full
Method 1
Regular queen bed
1
Buy all the materials you need. See the list of Things you will need below for specific details. The goal is to build a bed that can accommodate a queen size mattress (1.50 m wide x 1.90 long). In addition to that, you must visit your local construction store to buy three basic things:
Rail hangers
Wood
Wood screws
2
Mount the hangers for bed. This material is essential to form rigid connections between all bed rails. Secure the hangers to the end of the side rail and the head. Check again that each connection is consistent. Repeat the process for each machine.
Sometimes you may find it difficult to find these hangers in construction stores. If so, check online stores.
Generally, hangers are sold in packages of 4 sets.
Instead of hangers for rails, you can use long screws. When you secure them, the screws make the bed very solid. Also, it is much easier to find lag screws than rail hangers.
3
Install the support rails. Screw the support rail to each side rail. Make sure you leave 30 cm (12 inches) apart. This provides the maximum weight support.
4
Create the support blocks. Make a slot in the support block and support beam, as shown. This slot should be a centered hole of 4 cm x 6.5 cm, the longest measurement of which should follow the widest part of the block.
5
Install the support blocks. Connect each support block to the center of the head rail and the foot rail of the bed with screws as shown in the picture.
6
Connect the rails. Connect each rail to the posts using the rail hangers.
7
Add the support beams. Insert the support beams between the two support blocks.
8
Insert the mattress plywood surface. Place the plywood on the support rails and support beam. It should fit inside the structure of the bed. When you're done, you can put the mattress on the bed.
9
Ready! Enjoy your new bed!
Method 2
Platform bed
1
Gather the materials and tools. You need a circular saw, a number of L-brackets, 8-centimeter self-drilling screws, some medium-density fibreboard or plywood, and several wood cuts. The cuts should be:
Two pieces of 2.15 meters of 2x4
Five pieces of 1.70 meters of 2x4
Eight pieces of 50 centimeters of 2x4
Two pieces of 2 meters of 2x12
Four pieces of 1.5 meters of 2x12
2
Create the base structure. With regular flat joints, use the self-drilling screws to join the pieces of 2 meters of 2x12 and two of 1.5 meters of 2x12 in a box of 1.5x2 meters.
3
Add the base bras. Place by sliding the remaining 1.5x2x12 pieces and then use the self-drilling screws to secure them in place. Leave the completed base aside.
4
Create the platform structure. Use regular flat joints and use self-drilling screws to join the pieces of 2.15 meters of 2x4 with two of the 1.70 meters of 2x4 to form a box of 1.80x2.15.
5
Add the platform bras. Place sliding the remaining pieces of 1.70 of 2x4, separate the box into 4 sections and then use self-drilling screws to secure the bras in place.
6
Install the platform supports. At this point you will have to add the pieces of 50 centimeters of 2x4 between the bras; two per section. Separate them uniformly, but overlap them, so that the left end and the second from the right have the supports at the same level as the right end and the second from the left. Adjust them with self-drilling screws as well.
7
Reinforce the corners and joints. Reinforce the inner corners of the base and the platform with L brackets. You can also add L brackets around other interior joints to increase its strength.
8
Install the plywood surface. Trace and cut the plywood to fit on the platform. You may need two pieces of plywood to cover it. Secure the plywood on the inner supports with self-drilling screws, so that the screws are not visible on the exposed platform.
9
Paint the bed. Sand the wood and then paint or dye the bed of the desired color.
10
Ready! Place the platform on the base at its final location. You can secure the platform at the base with a few strategically placed L-brackets if you want. Now just place your queen or full size mattress!
Method 3
Double captain bed
1
Get the materials. You will need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (2x4 squares), several meters of Velcro, a saw, 24 basic L-brackets with fixing screws and wood in the following sections:
Four pieces of 1 meter of 2x10
Six pieces of 70 centimeters of 2x10
Four pieces of 40 cm of 2x10
2
Create the boxes at the ends. You will use the wood to build two bookcases at the ends that share the weight of the bed with the Expedit booksellers. The boxes are created by connecting two pieces of 1 meter of 2x10 wood to two sections of 70 centimeters of 2x10 wood in a box of 1 meter x 80 centimeters. Secure the parts with self-drilling screws: 3 for each joint. Secure each corner with an L-bracket in the center.
3
Add the central bra. Then, center and secure another piece of 70 centimeters of 2x10 wood in the same way to create two sections in each box. Secure the center bra with an L bracket on each side at the bottom and top.
4
Add shelves if you want. If you want to add shelves, you can do it easily with some 1x10 wood cut into pieces of 40 centimeters. Adjust the shelf to the desired height and then secure the bottom with L-brackets, two per side.
5
Add a backup for booksellers at the ends. Trace the bookshelves in plywood and cut the back with a saw. Clamp it in place by hand or with a pneumatic nail gun.
6
Add legs to the booksellers at the ends. You probably want to place felt feet on the bottom of these bookshelves to avoid scratching the floor or moving. You can buy them easily in many types of stores.
7
Paint the four booksellers to match. When you're done with the booksellers, you'll want to paint them in the same color as the Expedit booksellers. Use aerosol paint that is graduated for use in laminate.
8
Install the plywood in the bookcases at the ends. Cut a piece of plywood 1 meter x 1.90 meters. With both bookcases facing outward and the Expedit bookshelves nestled between them, nail the plywood in place through two nails through the plywood and into the sides of the bookcases at the ends.
You can stick a non-slip cover, like the ones that go under the rugs, if you want.
9
Accommodates Expedit booksellers as needed. Accommodates Expedit bookshelves so that they are aligned with the sides of the bookcases at the ends.
10
Add some final touches. Ikea produces several useful accessories for Expedit booksellers. You can add baskets, sliding drawers or basic doors, and everything comes in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed!
This bed should only be used by a child, as it can not support extreme weights.
Tips
Things you will need
Do you have a rickety metal bed? Or maybe you have the mattress on the floor without a bed. Have you considered getting a wooden bed? You can add a lot of charm to your room and get rid of the annoying squeaks. However, you should bear in mind that they are not cheap. We present a simple plan to build your own wooden bed that you can modify for any size (or height!) You want.
ZIYOO 14 inch Heavy Duty Steel Slat Platform Bed Frame, Non-Slip Design, Strengthen Support Mattress Foundation, Quiet Noise Free, Full
Method 1
Regular queen bed
1
Buy all the materials you need. See the list of Things you will need below for specific details. The goal is to build a bed that can accommodate a queen size mattress (1.50 m wide x 1.90 long). In addition to that, you must visit your local construction store to buy three basic things:
Rail hangers
Wood
Wood screws
2
Mount the hangers for bed. This material is essential to form rigid connections between all bed rails. Secure the hangers to the end of the side rail and the head. Check again that each connection is consistent. Repeat the process for each machine.
Sometimes you may find it difficult to find these hangers in construction stores. If so, check online stores.
Generally, hangers are sold in packages of 4 sets.
Instead of hangers for rails, you can use long screws. When you secure them, the screws make the bed very solid. Also, it is much easier to find lag screws than rail hangers.
3
Install the support rails. Screw the support rail to each side rail. Make sure you leave 30 cm (12 inches) apart. This provides the maximum weight support.
4
Create the support blocks. Make a slot in the support block and support beam, as shown. This slot should be a centered hole of 4 cm x 6.5 cm, the longest measurement of which should follow the widest part of the block.
5
Install the support blocks. Connect each support block to the center of the head rail and the foot rail of the bed with screws as shown in the picture.
6
Connect the rails. Connect each rail to the posts using the rail hangers.
7
Add the support beams. Insert the support beams between the two support blocks.
8
Insert the mattress plywood surface. Place the plywood on the support rails and support beam. It should fit inside the structure of the bed. When you're done, you can put the mattress on the bed.
9
Ready! Enjoy your new bed!
Method 2
Platform bed
1
Gather the materials and tools. You need a circular saw, a number of L-brackets, 8-centimeter self-drilling screws, some medium-density fibreboard or plywood, and several wood cuts. The cuts should be:
Two pieces of 2.15 meters of 2x4
Five pieces of 1.70 meters of 2x4
Eight pieces of 50 centimeters of 2x4
Two pieces of 2 meters of 2x12
Four pieces of 1.5 meters of 2x12
2
Create the base structure. With regular flat joints, use the self-drilling screws to join the pieces of 2 meters of 2x12 and two of 1.5 meters of 2x12 in a box of 1.5x2 meters.
3
Add the base bras. Place by sliding the remaining 1.5x2x12 pieces and then use the self-drilling screws to secure them in place. Leave the completed base aside.
4
Create the platform structure. Use regular flat joints and use self-drilling screws to join the pieces of 2.15 meters of 2x4 with two of the 1.70 meters of 2x4 to form a box of 1.80x2.15.
5
Add the platform bras. Place sliding the remaining pieces of 1.70 of 2x4, separate the box into 4 sections and then use self-drilling screws to secure the bras in place.
6
Install the platform supports. At this point you will have to add the pieces of 50 centimeters of 2x4 between the bras; two per section. Separate them uniformly, but overlap them, so that the left end and the second from the right have the supports at the same level as the right end and the second from the left. Adjust them with self-drilling screws as well.
7
Reinforce the corners and joints. Reinforce the inner corners of the base and the platform with L brackets. You can also add L brackets around other interior joints to increase its strength.
8
Install the plywood surface. Trace and cut the plywood to fit on the platform. You may need two pieces of plywood to cover it. Secure the plywood on the inner supports with self-drilling screws, so that the screws are not visible on the exposed platform.
9
Paint the bed. Sand the wood and then paint or dye the bed of the desired color.
10
Ready! Place the platform on the base at its final location. You can secure the platform at the base with a few strategically placed L-brackets if you want. Now just place your queen or full size mattress!
Method 3
Double captain bed
1
Get the materials. You will need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (2x4 squares), several meters of Velcro, a saw, 24 basic L-brackets with fixing screws and wood in the following sections:
Four pieces of 1 meter of 2x10
Six pieces of 70 centimeters of 2x10
Four pieces of 40 cm of 2x10
2
Create the boxes at the ends. You will use the wood to build two bookcases at the ends that share the weight of the bed with the Expedit booksellers. The boxes are created by connecting two pieces of 1 meter of 2x10 wood to two sections of 70 centimeters of 2x10 wood in a box of 1 meter x 80 centimeters. Secure the parts with self-drilling screws: 3 for each joint. Secure each corner with an L-bracket in the center.
3
Add the central bra. Then, center and secure another piece of 70 centimeters of 2x10 wood in the same way to create two sections in each box. Secure the center bra with an L bracket on each side at the bottom and top.
4
Add shelves if you want. If you want to add shelves, you can do it easily with some 1x10 wood cut into pieces of 40 centimeters. Adjust the shelf to the desired height and then secure the bottom with L-brackets, two per side.
5
Add a backup for booksellers at the ends. Trace the bookshelves in plywood and cut the back with a saw. Clamp it in place by hand or with a pneumatic nail gun.
6
Add legs to the booksellers at the ends. You probably want to place felt feet on the bottom of these bookshelves to avoid scratching the floor or moving. You can buy them easily in many types of stores.
7
Paint the four booksellers to match. When you're done with the booksellers, you'll want to paint them in the same color as the Expedit booksellers. Use aerosol paint that is graduated for use in laminate.
8
Install the plywood in the bookcases at the ends. Cut a piece of plywood 1 meter x 1.90 meters. With both bookcases facing outward and the Expedit bookshelves nestled between them, nail the plywood in place through two nails through the plywood and into the sides of the bookcases at the ends.
You can stick a non-slip cover, like the ones that go under the rugs, if you want.
9
Accommodates Expedit booksellers as needed. Accommodates Expedit bookshelves so that they are aligned with the sides of the bookcases at the ends.
10
Add some final touches. Ikea produces several useful accessories for Expedit booksellers. You can add baskets, sliding drawers or basic doors, and everything comes in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed!
This bed should only be used by a child, as it can not support extreme weights.
Tips
- Add the wood of your choice to the corners and you could end up with a beautiful canopy bed (with larger diameter)! All you need to change are turned posts to turn this bed into something incredible.
- Sand any rough edges so that the bed is smooth.
- Drill pilot holes before screwing the parts.
- Color the wood with a color that you like to give it an even more beautiful look.
Things you will need
- 8 sets of rails perches
- 4 pieces of wood of 4x4x21 "(10.1 cm x 10.1 cm x 53.3 cm) for the posts at the head and foot.
- 2 pieces of wood of 2x6x60 "(5cm x 15.2 cm x 1.5 meters) for the rail of the headboard and the foot.
- 6 pieces of 2x4x8 "wood (5cm x 10.1cm x 20.3cm) for the support blocks
- 2 pieces of wood of 2x6x80 "(5 cm x 15.2 cm x 2.032 meters) for the side rail
- 2 pieces of wood of 2x4x80 "(5 cm x 15.2 cm x 2.032 meters) for the support rail
- 3 pieces of wood of 2x4x80 "(5 cm x 15.2 cm x 2.032 meters) for the support beam
- 2 pieces of plywood 3-1 / 4'x5 ', 3/4 "(8.2 cm x 12. 7 cm, 1.9 cm)
- Box of screws for 2-1 / 4 "wood (5.7 cm)
- 1-1 / 4 "screw case (if the screws are not included with the rail hangers)
- Mountain range
- Drill
- Sandpaper
- Wood stain (optional)
45MinST 14 Inch Reinforced Platform Bed Frame/3500lbs Heavy Duty/Easy Assembly Mattress Foundation/Steel Slat/Noise Free/No Box Spring Needed, Twin/Full/Queen/King/Cal King(Full)
How to make a laminate bed
Do not you know how to make a bed? Do not miss this Bricomania job on how to make a wenge laminated bed.
Sleeping and resting well at night is essential to be able to face our daily work with energy, therefore, we must pay close attention to the support of our sleep. In this section we will build the structure of a bed of 1m and 35 cm, with chipboard panels veneered in wengé and metal bars. A simple and practical carpentry work that we explain, step by step below.
To make the frame of our bed we are going to use some wickers made of melamine agglomerate ; we will cut the pieces that we need and we will add them with a cantear tape that imitates the same type of wood.
45MinST 14 Inch Reinforced Platform Bed Frame/3500lbs Heavy Duty/Easy Assembly Mattress Foundation/Steel Slat/Noise Free/No Box Spring Needed, Twin/Full/Queen/King/Cal King(Full)
This tape comes without any special preparation and to stick it to the edge, we will use an adhesive putty . We will make some crossbeams that will support the bed frame with iron bars and finally, we will place some legs to the furniture to be able to move it easily.
Tools
materials
Step by step to make the structure of a bed
Step 1
We mark and cut the pieces of agglomerate that will configure the structure of the bed; the board that we will use to make the furniture frame will be 30 mm thick and the one we will use for the skirts, 19 mm. To get straight and clean cuts we will use the circular saw.
Step 2
When we have cut all the pieces, we will edify them with a cantear tape that imitates the wengé. Since this one is not self-adhesive, we will fix it to the edge with an adhesive putty . It is advisable that the tape be a little wider and longer than the edge of the board.
Step 3
We will provisionally attach the edging tape with some strips of adhesive tape so that it does not come loose.
Step 4
We also put some jaws to reinforce the union , using wooden slats to prevent the pieces from getting damaged.
Step 5
When the adhesive has dried, we remove both the clamps and the strips of adhesive tape and we cut the edges of the pieces , with the milling machine provided with a half-round milling cutter.
Step 6
We make the holes in the pieces that will configure the frame of the bed, to be able to join them with some eccentric hooks. To perform this work, we will use the tower, the electric drill and a drill bit.
Step 7
Next, we insert the hooks in the holes.
Step 8
We replaced the drill bit with a wood drill and made a through hole for the stem . It is a piece in the shape of a rod that serves to articulate or hold other pieces.
Step 9
Using the same bit we will make a blind hole in the other piece that we are going to join, where we will introduce an expansive nut.
Step 10
With the help of a nylon mallet we insert the nut into the hole.
Step 11
We will reinforce this union with some tubillions , so we will have to make some holes and fill them with an adhesive putty. Next, we will introduce the tubillions using a wooden mallet.
Step 12
Using the same adhesive, we stick the skirts to the wooden base . This mounting putty has a great initial grip and is ideal for sticking wood. In addition, its fast and extra-strong bonding, makes it perfect to apply both indoors and outdoors.
Step 13
Now, we will prepare the crossbeams that will support the bed base, placing some plates at the ends with the technique of arc welding . We protect our faces and hands, with a mask and special gloves for this type of work.
Step 14
So that the welding has a careful appearance we remove the slag well with a tip.
Step 15
After making sure that the surface is completely clean, we apply a black anti-rust enamel with the help of a roller. To work more cleanly, we will wear latex gloves.
Step 16
When the enamel has dried, we place the legs on the crossbars , fixing them with the staples that come in the kit.
Step 17
To finish assembling the structure of the bed , we will join the crossbars to the wooden structure with some screws .
Step 18
In this simple way, we will have built the structure of a double bed with chipboard panels veneered in wengé and metal bars. Of modern line and light aspect, the support of our bed is also solid and very resistant. And, now, rest!
Do not you know how to make a bed? Do not miss this Bricomania job on how to make a wenge laminated bed.
Sleeping and resting well at night is essential to be able to face our daily work with energy, therefore, we must pay close attention to the support of our sleep. In this section we will build the structure of a bed of 1m and 35 cm, with chipboard panels veneered in wengé and metal bars. A simple and practical carpentry work that we explain, step by step below.
To make the frame of our bed we are going to use some wickers made of melamine agglomerate ; we will cut the pieces that we need and we will add them with a cantear tape that imitates the same type of wood.
45MinST 14 Inch Reinforced Platform Bed Frame/3500lbs Heavy Duty/Easy Assembly Mattress Foundation/Steel Slat/Noise Free/No Box Spring Needed, Twin/Full/Queen/King/Cal King(Full)
This tape comes without any special preparation and to stick it to the edge, we will use an adhesive putty . We will make some crossbeams that will support the bed frame with iron bars and finally, we will place some legs to the furniture to be able to move it easily.
Tools
- circular saw
- Arc welder
- Welding helmet
- Metallic brush
- Silicone applicator gun
- Electric drill
- Drill foot
- Drill for wood of Ø 7 mm
- Ø 25 mm drill bit
- Roller
- Bucket
- Milling machine
- Strawberry half-round
- Drill Ø 10 mm
materials
- 19 and 30 mm thick melamine chipboard boards in wengé
- Edging tape
- 30 X 30 iron tube
- 4 metal plates
- 4 legs of bed
- Anti-corrosive enamel
- Putty of assembly
- Eccentric hooks
- Throat 3.5 x 30 mm
- Scotch tape
- Tubillones Ø 10 mm
Step by step to make the structure of a bed
Step 1
We mark and cut the pieces of agglomerate that will configure the structure of the bed; the board that we will use to make the furniture frame will be 30 mm thick and the one we will use for the skirts, 19 mm. To get straight and clean cuts we will use the circular saw.
Step 2
When we have cut all the pieces, we will edify them with a cantear tape that imitates the wengé. Since this one is not self-adhesive, we will fix it to the edge with an adhesive putty . It is advisable that the tape be a little wider and longer than the edge of the board.
Step 3
We will provisionally attach the edging tape with some strips of adhesive tape so that it does not come loose.
Step 4
We also put some jaws to reinforce the union , using wooden slats to prevent the pieces from getting damaged.
Step 5
When the adhesive has dried, we remove both the clamps and the strips of adhesive tape and we cut the edges of the pieces , with the milling machine provided with a half-round milling cutter.
Step 6
We make the holes in the pieces that will configure the frame of the bed, to be able to join them with some eccentric hooks. To perform this work, we will use the tower, the electric drill and a drill bit.
Step 7
Next, we insert the hooks in the holes.
Step 8
We replaced the drill bit with a wood drill and made a through hole for the stem . It is a piece in the shape of a rod that serves to articulate or hold other pieces.
Step 9
Using the same bit we will make a blind hole in the other piece that we are going to join, where we will introduce an expansive nut.
Step 10
With the help of a nylon mallet we insert the nut into the hole.
Step 11
We will reinforce this union with some tubillions , so we will have to make some holes and fill them with an adhesive putty. Next, we will introduce the tubillions using a wooden mallet.
Step 12
Using the same adhesive, we stick the skirts to the wooden base . This mounting putty has a great initial grip and is ideal for sticking wood. In addition, its fast and extra-strong bonding, makes it perfect to apply both indoors and outdoors.
Step 13
Now, we will prepare the crossbeams that will support the bed base, placing some plates at the ends with the technique of arc welding . We protect our faces and hands, with a mask and special gloves for this type of work.
Step 14
So that the welding has a careful appearance we remove the slag well with a tip.
Step 15
After making sure that the surface is completely clean, we apply a black anti-rust enamel with the help of a roller. To work more cleanly, we will wear latex gloves.
Step 16
When the enamel has dried, we place the legs on the crossbars , fixing them with the staples that come in the kit.
Step 17
To finish assembling the structure of the bed , we will join the crossbars to the wooden structure with some screws .
Step 18
In this simple way, we will have built the structure of a double bed with chipboard panels veneered in wengé and metal bars. Of modern line and light aspect, the support of our bed is also solid and very resistant. And, now, rest!
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