Steering wheel Removal of lawnmower

Steering wheel Removal of lawnmower

•     First, remove the balls from the ratchet mechanism piece. Check that they are not rusted and locked in the mechanism, and then add some light oil to the balls when replacing them.
•     Then use a socket wrench (Stillsons) to remove this piece that is held in the flywheel. Loosen it counter-clockwise.
•     Do not press the terminals if they break. I used a flat steel bar under the flywheel wedged against the engine body to immobilize it. (Actually, there is a special tool to hold the steering wheel.) Do not insert anything into the flywheel flaps, which may end Arrancándolos if excessive torque is required to loosen the accessory.
•     The flywheel is fitted on a conical shaft and there is a special extractor available to remove it. You're not supposed to do this, but if you keep touching the bottom of the steering wheel with a light hammer, it should be easy to release. (Gently touch the thickest part with the magnet, but do not hit hard!)

1. Use a pipe wrench (Stillson) to remove this piece. Keep the jaws away from the screw lugs to avoid damaging them.
2. Use a pipe wrench (Stillson) to remove this piece. Keep jaws away from screws to avoid damaging them.
3. Lightly tap the flywheel all round the perimeter to release it. First tap the heavy part with the magnet inserts as shown, and the similar piece on the other side. Don't lose the iron key in the flywheel shaft.
4. Tap the steering wheel around the perimeter to release it. First touch the heavy part with the magnetic inserts as shown, and the similar piece on the other side. Do not lose the iron key on the steering wheel shaft.
5. Ideally, remove a flywheel with pullers.
6. Ideally, remove a flywheel with extractors.
7. The points are inside this compartment.
8. The dots are inside this compartment.
9. Points and capacitor (originally called a condenser): If the rubber seal on the crankshaft is faulty, oil can accumulate in this compartment and splash onto the points, causing misfiring.
10. Clean any tarnish and pitting from the points with a file or fine sandpaper. Take care, as the points are coated with special material to withstand arcing. If you overdo it with the file, you'll end up removing the coating.
11. Finally, remove any residue or oil with a piece of cloth.

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The points gap is set on this Briggs and Stratton engine by loosening the bolt and moving the capacitor. It should be about 0.02 inch (check it with a feeler gauge).

What happens if my lawnmower still doesn't turn on?

What happens if my lawnmower still doesn't turn on?

Read on to get more troubleshooting, but try all the earlier simple things before moving on.

Cleaning points on an old engine

Most modern engines have an electronic ignition system. According to Briggs and Stratton, this usually applies to engines manufactured after 1983. The engine below is probably about 40 years old and the points need to be cleaned.

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• Dirty contact points can prevent a spark from occurring in the plug. The points on a motor are basically a switch that opens when the current through the coil of the spark generator device (ignition coil or magneto) is at its maximum point. This creates a voltage spike in the spark plug. These points can be stained or corroded and bored over time and should be cleaned. A rubber oil seal is installed at the crankshaft exit point from the sump and top of the engine block. If the engine tends to fail (no sparks occur in a cycle), it may be due to the oil getting out of this seal and splashing over the dots. A puddle of oil in the point compartment is evidence of this. It's kind of like a test to get to the points that are usually under the steering wheel of the engine.
• This mower has been stored in a leaking shed and rusted up for over 20 years without being started. I'm going to check out the points and carburetor to see if it's ok. This machine has a pump-and-weir type carburetor.
• This mower has been stored in a leaky shed and has rusted for more than 20 years without being torn off. I'm going to check the points and the carburetor to see if they're okay. This machine has a pump-type carburetor and weir.
• First, remove the mesh on the flywheel.
• First, remove the mesh on the steering wheel.
• Prise off the plate covering the ratchet mechanism.
• Award plate covering the ratchet mechanism.
• Remove the steel balls which form part of the ratchet mechanism. If they are rusted, clean them with fine wire wool and add a little light machine oil when replacing.
• Remove the steel balls that are part of the ratchet mechanism. If rusty, clean with fine wire wool and add some light oil to the machine when replacing.

Magneto coil test on Old point engines of lawn mower

Magneto coil test on Old point engines of lawn mower

The resistance of the secondary coil (which is connected to the spark plug) can be measured with a DMM (digital multimeter). If you do not know how to use one, read How to use a digital multimeter (DMM) to measure voltage, current and resistance.

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•     First, you must connect the sensor probes between the two ends of the coil. One end of the primary and secondary coils is grounded, so connect one probe to the motor and the other to the end of the spark wire. This should give a reading between 2.5 and 5 Kiloohmios. However, this does not necessarily mean that the coil is fine, as the high voltage could be being traced to ground through an insulation failure. However, an open-circuit reading indicates a fault.
•     Check the grounding from the end of the coil to the engine block. It is likely to be a ring crimping terminal, so make sure that it is properly connected and that it is not an open circuit at this point. The resistance of the primary coil must be approximately one ohm, decreasing to less than one ohm as the flywheel is turned, causing the points to close.
•     If the resistance does not change when the steering wheel is turned, the points may be missing. Make sure the motor is in the start position (which opens the off switch) during the measurement. Otherwise, the kill switch cortocircuitará the coil, giving a false reading.

Electronic ignition/Capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)

Electronic ignition/Capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)

Today, engines have an electronic ignition system known as capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) and modules may fail, requiring replacement. If the ignition coil does not produce a spark after testing a new Plug and has checked the power switch to make sure it is not short-circuited, there is nothing else you can do but replace the module.

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Wiring and connections lawn mower

Wiring and connections lawn mower

If a spark is not obtained, inspect the motor wiring. As in a car, the ignition system uses the engine block as a ground, so make sure all the ring notches are tight and not loose. Damaged insulation can short-circuit the voltage to the engine block. The swords can be detached, and the screws holding the ring can be loosened due to vibration.
Check for loose or dirty connections.

The Kill Switch

If you still can't produce a spark, there might be a problem on the kill switch. This shuts off the motor by shorting the magneto coil and prevents a spark from being created when the mower is turned off. The switch works when you release the "Dead Handle" on the mower or put the throttle in the stop position. Trace The wire on the magneto coil to find this switch. You will most likely need to remove the hood from the top of the engine and possibly the steering wheel to check this.

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Check the switch using the continuity or lowest ohm range on your meter. The switch must be in the open circuit when the engine is running and there is a shorting when the motor is off. Remove one of the connections to the switch when checking. Otherwise, the resistance of the magneto coil will give a false reading.

The ignition system: the best place to start troubleshooting

The ignition system: the best place to start troubleshooting

The function of the ignition system is to create a spark on the plug and Ignite the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder. A device called Magneto generates high voltage, and any of the mechanically operated points or an electronic switch will trigger the spark at the appropriate time in the four-stroke cycle.

More than 90% of the time, problems with gas engines are due to a carburetor problem. However, the spark plug is easy to check first.

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See the ignition system diagram below.
The Magneto

On a push mower and other battery-free motors (such as chainsaws, trimmers, and motorcycles without batteries), a device called Magneto is used to generate the high-voltage spark. Magnets are even used on aircraft with a piston motor for safety reasons, so the failure of the battery or alternator does not cause the engine to cut. A magneto is a sort of crossover between a generator and a transformer and has a primary and secondary coil.

The magnet is mounted by the steering wheel (the thing with fins on top of the mower, which rotates). A magnet embedded in the edge of the flywheel induces a current pulse on the primary coil as it moves rapidly beyond the magneto poles. When the current reaches a peak, a set of switch contacts called points is opened, interrupting the current. This causes the magnetic field in the primary coil to collapse rapidly, causing a voltage spike in the secondary coil. This coil, which has many cable turns, increases the voltage to approximately 10,000 volts (or more). A capacitor, also known as condenser, absorbs the current produced by the primary coil allowing the magnetic field to collapse rapidly. The modern engines have electronic ignition and the points are replaced by an electronic switch called thyristor or SCR (silicon-controlled rectifier).

1. Some engines (such as those used in the ride mowers) do not have magnets, and instead will use an on-board battery and a ignition coil to produce a spark, similar to a car's system.
2. Schematic of lawnmower ignition circuit with mechanical points. The points are connected to the primary of the magneto, the spark plug to the secondary.
3. Diagram of the lawnmower's ignition circuit with mechanical points. The dots are connected to the magnet's primary, the spark plug to the secondary.
4. Modern engines have electronic ignition and there are no points to clean. If the ignition module fails, the complete unit needs to be replaced.
5. Modern engines have electronic ignition and there are no points to clean. If the ignition module fails, the entire unit must be replaced.
6. Engine flywheel, visible when the cowling or cover over the mower is removed.
7. Motor flywheel, visible when the fairing or cover is removed on the mower.
8. Flywheel, magneto, and governor vane.
9. Steering wheel, Magneto and governor's paddle.
10. Spark Test on Plug

•     First, verify that the wire that feeds high voltage to the spark plug should not be loose and must be snug. Sometimes the cable may come out of the rubber sheath and the terminal that pushes toward the spark plug. Then, using a spark plug wrench, remove the plug, replace the plug cable into the plug, and place the threaded part of the plug in contact with the motor block to ground it.
•     Now pull the starter cable and look for a spark. You must keep the plug tight against the motor in some way, as it may bounce when you pull the starter cord. This is where an assistant can be useful as it can be difficult for you to see the plug from where you are pulling the starter cable. Try pressing the plug against the lawn mower with a plastic piece or similar, such as a plastic garment peg. The cable could hold the plug, but if it is wet or if the insulation is bad, you may end up getting shocked!
•     If you do not see a spark at this point, there may be a crack in the stopper insulation or it may be dirty and should be cleaned with an old toothbrush and a little gasoline. A wire brush the size of a toothbrush is even better. Let it dry and try to light a spark again. If you are not successful, try another plug and check again. It does not hurt to have a replacement plug for this purpose or to use a car plug, but do not use this plug on the motor unless it is the correct type, as it could hit the piston and cause damage if it is too long.
•     The external electrode of the plug must be filled with a small file if it has been rounded. The spark plug space should usually be adjusted to 0.030 "(30 thousandths of an inch)/0.75 mm, but check your engine manufacturer's recommendations. The separation is measured by a thickness gauge (see photo below). These are generally in the form of a set of steel strips of varying thickness of approximately 0, 002 inches to 0, 030 inches.

    Caution: The threads on a plug are steel, but the engine block and cylinder head are usually aluminum alloys, which is smoother than steel. So that the threads can be damaged if you are not careful. Check for dust or other particles on the plug or motor threads before screwing. Make sure the plug does not kink and do not overtighten. Ideally, you must use a torque wrench to tighten the cap or when you replace the blade on a lawnmower.

If you damage the threads and the plug does not tighten, you can obtain a Helicoil installed in a repair shop. This involves hitting the stock and screwing an insert into place that has internal threads to fit the plug.

If the starter cable is difficult to pull, slip or roll

If the starter cable is difficult to pull, slip or roll

If you find it difficult to remove the starter cord, there are three possible causes:

•     First, groups of wet grass or moss can clog the bottom of the platform and prevent the blade from spinning. Before removing clippings and attempting to rotate the blade to clear the platform, disconnect the spark plug wire.
•     The flywheel brake may prevent the motor from turning. When you release the "Dead Man's Handle" on the mower handle, a switch shuts off and shuts off the engine. A brake is also triggered in place and reduces engine speed. If this brake has been seized in place or the cable that operates it has been broken, this will prevent the motor from turning. You will need to remove the fairing at the top of the motor to get this brake.
•     Recoil starters on some engines have approximately half a dozen steel balls that act as part of the ratchet mechanism. These can rust and cause the starter motor to slide and do not start the engine or prevent it from rolling properly. You can clean the balls with fine-wire wool: Add a light jet of oil to the machine in the compartment housing the balls when replacing them. (Scroll down for instructions.)

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Lawn mower adjustment and Troubleshooting: Basic Hand Tools required

Lawn mower adjustment and Troubleshooting: Basic Hand Tools required

•     Set of tube keys. Inch sizes for American and metric engines for European or Japanese engines. You don't need to spend a fortune on a game because you're not going to use it every day. However, do not buy waste because you can use them to work on other equipment. A 3/8 inch ratchet is fine, or a smaller size of 1/4 inch for use in confined spaces.
•     The combined Keys, open at one end and the ring at the other end, are also useful. These can be used for situations in which a nut needs to be undone, but the threaded section of the screw extends too far beyond the nut to fit into a socket. The keys are also known as spanners in the UK. It is not necessary that the sockets or keys are greater than 3/4 of inch AF (in the planes) or 19 mm of size.
•     Plug wrench to remove spark plugs.
•     Screwdrivers. Flat head and Philips, both large and small.
•     Magnetic Tray This is useful to prevent all those small parts from coming out without authorization!
•     Torque Wrench to tighten the bolt that holds the blade and spark plug.
•     Thickness gauge to check the distance between the spark plugs or the dots.

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Note: Tuning an engine refers to the engine adjustment process for optimum performance. This includes adjusting the spark plug and point gap and adjusting the fuel/air mixture and idling speed.

• Combination wrenches (spanners) - Open at one end and ring at the other
• Combined keys (spanners): Open at one end and ring on the other
• Long nose pliers, flat blade screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, and socket wrench.
• Long-nosed pliers, flat-tip screwdriver, Philips screwdriver and socket wrench.
• Two styles of plug wrench: Socket wrench and box wrench/spanner.
• Two styles of pin wrench: socket wrench and box spanner/spanner.

Before dismantling

Before you begin to dismantle everything, take some high resolution photos with a digital camera if there is any chance that you forget to forget how to reassemble the pieces.

In addition, if you need to remove many washers, bushings, springs and nuts on an axle or bolt, you can thread them into a piece of cable to track the reassembly sequence.

Starting your lawnmower: initial troubleshooting checklist

Starting your lawnmower: initial troubleshooting checklist

Tip

• # 1 Use fresh gas. Do not use old gasoline that may cause difficulty starting. Make sure there is enough fuel in the tank and check that the vent on the tank cap is unlocked.
• # 2 Make sure the spark cable is firmly attached to the Plug and the plug is securely screwed. Try replacing the spark plug with a new one.
• # 3 Make sure the "Dead Man" control on the mower is kept fully against the mower handle during startup.
• # 4 Activate choke if a manual choke is installed. Do not turn the choke on if the engine has been running for the last 5 minutes.
• # 5 Be sure to press the primer bulb about 5 times (if applicable). If the mower is running out of gas during cutting, you will need to prime again.
• # 6 Check that the air filter is not dirty. Wash and dry a foam-type air filter (see below for details), or replace a dirty paper filter.
• # 7 Check that the cord connecting the "dead Man's Handle" (on the frame) with the motor is not damaged or broken.
• # 8 Check that the carburetor is properly screwed or screwed to the motor.
• # 9 Make sure there is no water in the bottom of the fuel tank.
• # 10 If the starter cable is difficult to remove, check that there are no grass groups that obstruct the bottom of the platform. These can clog the blade. Unplug the spark plug before attempting to move the blade to remove clippings.

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What happens if my lawnmower still doesn't start?

Scroll down to learn more about how your machine works and other troubleshooting tips.

Protecting Your hands

Ideally, you should wear gloves to protect your hands from dirt that can irritate sensitive skin, especially if you have to change the engine oil or if your hands are in contact with gasoline or diesel. Disposable latex gloves are not recommended, and vinyl gloves are supposed to have only "fair" resistance to petrol/oils, according to specifications. From experience, I have discovered that vinyl disposables appear to be much more durable than latex, and resist contact with oil, grease and gasoline for short periods. Nitrile rubber gloves are the most resistant to these chemicals.

If you dispense with gloves and work with bare hands (which inevitably happens because it is difficult to handle small pieces with gloves), a hand cleaner will do a better job than soap to remove dirt.

Lawn mower Oil Check

Lawn mower Oil Check

Oil level should be between the high and low marks on the dipstick.
The oil level must be between the high and low marks on the level rod.

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Reasons and solutions for a lawn mower that won't start

Why your mower will not start     Possible      solutions

• The engine is not getting the fuel it needs.    Empty and re-fill the tank with fresh gas; Check fuel inlet system: carburetor canister; Choke, throttle, choke button, fuel filter
• He's not getting the spark he needs.    Clean the spark plug, check its connections or replace it; Check the ignition system.
• Needs oil    Check the oil level. Some newer engines have a low oil level floating switch to turn off the start
• He's not getting the air he needs.    Check, clean, or replace the air filter.
• Problems with the starter rope.    Check the flywheel brake; Make sure there is nothing clogging the blade.
• You put diesel in the engine instead of gasoline    Did you really use gasoline? It can detect by smell if fuel is diesel, kerosene or gas. Ask someone who knows the difference.
• Other.    Then you will find many more causes and possible solutions.
• You will then find detailed instructions for troubleshooting and solving all of these problems.

The golden rule of problem solving

Remember to do just one change at a time and try to start over, because if you don't, your first bright spark of inspiration can solve the problem and the second silly idea can make things work again.

How to check the level of oil in a lawn mower

How to check the level of oil in a lawn mower

Lawnmower engines are usually 4-stroke, although 2-stroke engines are available. A 4-stroke engine has a crankcase located at the lowest point of the engine. The oil in this tank is thrown on the walls of the cylinder, the crankshaft and all other moving parts with a dashboard or "flicker". The oil level in an engine must be checked before use. If the level is too low or there is no oil in the motor, it will seize quickly.

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•     Make sure the engine is cold or wait 5 minutes for the oil to stabilize if the engine has been running.
•     Place mower on a level surface.
•     Remove the dipstick: it is usually attached to a small screw cap, smaller than the fuel tank.
•     Clean the rod with a cloth. Consider the high and low level marks.
•     Replace the measuring rod.
•     Now remove the dipstick again and check that the level is between the marks.

Acquire the habit of checking the oil level regularly. Ideally, this should be done every time you use the lawnmower, but if the engine is not burning oil, one control is sufficient each month (depending on use). If cutting in sloping terrain, oil consumption may be higher if oil is expelled through a vent/deflector arrangement for the crankcase called a vent. In fact, it is not harmful to keep the carburetor on the high side when working on a slope.

Lawn mowers should have an oil change after every 20 to 50 hours of use (see your manual or search engine block for more information). If you do not know how to do this, refer to my guide how to change mower oil.

If you buy a new lawnmower or engine, the oil sump will usually be empty. The manufacturers drain the oil after the test and before shipment so that it does not leak if the boxes/boxes are turned upside down. Do not forget to add oil before use! Usually there is a label to remind you to do this before you begin.