- First, remove the balls from the ratchet mechanism piece. Check that they are not rusted and locked in the mechanism, and then add some light oil to the balls when replacing them.
- Then use a socket wrench (Stillsons) to remove this piece that is held in the flywheel. Loosen it counter-clockwise.
- Do not press the terminals if they break. I used a flat steel bar under the flywheel wedged against the engine body to immobilize it. (Actually, there is a special tool to hold the steering wheel.) Do not insert anything into the flywheel flaps, which may end Arrancándolos if excessive torque is required to loosen the accessory.
- The flywheel is fitted on a conical shaft and there is a special extractor available to remove it. You're not supposed to do this, but if you keep touching the bottom of the steering wheel with a light hammer, it should be easy to release. (Gently touch the thickest part with the magnet, but do not hit hard!)
- Use a pipe wrench (Stillson) to remove this piece. Keep the jaws away from the screw lugs to avoid damaging them.
- Use a pipe wrench (Stillson) to remove this piece. Keep jaws away from screws to avoid damaging them.
- Lightly tap the flywheel all round the perimeter to release it. First tap the heavy part with the magnet inserts as shown, and the similar piece on the other side. Don't lose the iron key in the flywheel shaft.
- Tap the steering wheel around the perimeter to release it. First touch the heavy part with the magnetic inserts as shown, and the similar piece on the other side. Do not lose the iron key on the steering wheel shaft.
- Ideally, remove a flywheel with pullers.
- Ideally, remove a flywheel with extractors.
- The points are inside this compartment.
- The dots are inside this compartment.
- Points and capacitor (originally called a condenser): If the rubber seal on the crankshaft is faulty, oil can accumulate in this compartment and splash onto the points, causing misfiring.
- Clean any tarnish and pitting from the points with a file or fine sandpaper. Take care, as the points are coated with special material to withstand arcing. If you overdo it with the file, you'll end up removing the coating.
- Finally, remove any residue or oil with a piece of cloth.
The points gap is set on this Briggs and Stratton engine by loosening the bolt and moving the capacitor. It should be about 0.02 inch (check it with a feeler gauge).