Everything you need to rebuild collagen and improve your skin
Do you really drink more water is the only solution at your fingertips to get a smoother and firmer skin?
Anyone who has set foot in a beauty shop in recent months will have noticed: the word ' collagen ' is present in all creams, pills and even supplements. In fact, the most enthusiastic of skin care have been obsessed with collagen for a very good reason. This protein found in our tissues and organs is the key to keeping our skin flexible and firm.
But collagen is not always kind to us. He is an ephemeral visitor who begins to say goodbye when we turn 20 years old. If you have begun to notice holes or gaps in your cheeks or fine lines in the delicate, thin skin under your eyes, these are all typical signs of a slowdown in collagen production.
And with this problem, all products offer similar promises: restore collagen in the skin . If a moisturizer, a supplement or a smoothie can really reduce the signs of aging, it's worth its price. And if it's a marketing gimmick or an exaggerated goal, we're here to tell you and save you the money.
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We ask the experts to separate the collagen from the fiction. Here are all the ways in which collagen can be reconstructed from the skin and some that, we anticipate, will not work.
When it comes to procedures that can be performed by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, few can touch the rejuvenation lasers to rebuild the collagen to obtain slow but lasting results.
Laser treatments?
"Lasers work by drilling microscopic holes in the skin , creating a controlled burn and taking advantage of the ability of the skin to heal after wounds," says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital In New York. "In the healing process, the body produces new and healthy collagen to improve the texture of the skin , the luminosity and strengthen the base of the skin, eliminating wrinkles."
Other laser and light devices that improve collagen are Ulthera , Fracture and Lumecca , says Lauren Abramowitz, PA-C and founder of Park Avenue Skin Solutions .
"All laser and light treatments work by thermal staking and collagen denaturation," says Abramowitz. "Directed thermal energy in the form of different wavelengths stimulates fibroblast cells, which in turn create more collagen ." Neocogenesis , an elegant word for the new formation of collagen , takes about 12 weeks.
Botox?
Neurotoxins such as Botox work by relaxing the muscles under the skin to prevent their folding, causing wrinkles and fine lines, says Zeichner. And they are incredibly effective in providing a temporary smoothing (four to six months) of skin on the forehead and around the eyes, but do not count on them to rebuild collagen.
Microneedling?
You can have a microneedle device at home (or micro-roller) and use it faithfully three times a week in combination with a powerful vitamin C serum. And yes, you can reap some of the benefits of increased collagen , but never confuse a device (or product) in the home with the same service provided by a doctor or skin care specialist.
"There is a big difference between microroller devices in the home and office microneedle procedures," says Abramowitz. "Medical grade microneedle devices must go through FDA authorization, while home devices do not meet these standards." The microneedle in the office, also known as collagen induction therapy, triggers a response from the body that then It produces collagen This treatment is considered minimally invasive and is designed to cause micro-injuries in the skin by using small microneedles. "
If you are torn between choosing a microneedle procedure in the office or a laser to reconstruct collagen , Zeichner says there is no problem. The lasers win: "The wound created in the skin by microneedle devices is larger than the microscopic channel created by the lasers, and the lasers can penetrate deeper into the skin than the microneedle devices."
The biggest benefit of using microrollers at home? According to Abramowitz, a better penetration of the product. But instead of resorting to a more expensive roller, it is best to find good quality serums with antiaging peptides.
Chemical peels and lasers?
There are various grades of chemical and laser peels that address mild and more advanced skin problems, such as wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. And while he's busy waiting for the temporary redness, dryness and peeling to disappear so he can see that newly radiant complexion, the skin is working on creating more collagen and elastic fibers that increase firmness, says Dr. Dara Liotta, a double aesthetic and reconstructive facial surgeon certified by the board in New York City.
Microcurrents
There are a lot of microcurrent devices on the market. Many cost a small fortune and require you to put your profits (and your faith) in the possibility that they will work. And they can be excellent for building collagen and increasing skin laxity, if you are between 20 and 30 years old and 40 years old.
"It has been shown to stimulate the production of new collagen and improve skin laxity," says Zeichner. "Like other devices, these are better for people who show the first signs of skin aging." When young and relatively healthy, using a booster as a microcurrent device can help simulate the functioning of cells. optimum