If the accumulation of water is observed on the back of the toilet bowl, check the coupling of the inlet tube on the bottom of the tank to ensure there are no leaks. Wrap a strip of toilet paper around the joint; If the paper peels dry, the rubber seal between the container and the container is damaged and must be replaced. Even though it takes some heavy work, replacing the rubber gasket is quite easy, as long as you have the correct spare parts.
Kohler K-4067-NY Bancroft Comfort Height Elongated Bowl, Dune
Instructions
1 Close the closing of the water supply valve to the toilet tank and pull the chain. Remove the lid from the reservoir and sponge out any remaining water in the bottom of the tank.
2 Undo the joint that connects the flexible hose of the shut-off valve to the base of the tank with an adjustable wrench. Lift the rubber washer into the joint with a fine screwdriver. If the washing machine is hard and brittle, unscrew the assembly from the other end of the compression and replace the entire hose at the same time as you have the opportunity.
3 Locate the two large slotted head screws on each side of the flap valve on the bottom of the tank. These screws connect the tank to the toilet bowl. Insert a large flat-blade screwdriver into one of the slots to prevent the screw from turning. Undo the nut on the bottom of the vessel flange with an adjustable wrench. Repeat this procedure and remove the second connection bolt.
4 Swing the toilet tank side to side to break the seal. Lift the container out of the container and place it face down on a thick towel next to the toilet. Take off the old rubber gasket from the socket. Scrape off any dirt that surrounds the outlet and the coupling flange on the toilet bowl with a spatula and a rag.
5 Take the old seal to the hardware store to make sure you buy the right size replacement. Also, purchase a new kit-tank to bolt cup, a flexible spare water supply pipe, and some silicone plumber's grease while you're there.
6 Coat both sides of the rubber-tank replacement to the cup seal with a thin layer of silicone grease plumber. Place the seal on the outlet of the tank with the upper conical part. Move the tank on the right side up. Place steel washers from the replacement kit on the new tank bolts to the bowl, followed by the fiber washers. Insert the screws through the holes in the bottom of the tank.
7 Lower the tank onto the cup. Make sure that the rubber-to-cup gasket fits perfectly in your recess-assignment dates, while slotting the bolts that fix into their respective holes in the flange bowl. Place fiber washers followed by steel washers through the bolts under the cup and thread the nuts until they are in hand tight; all washers are included in the bolt-to-cup replacement kit.
8 Place the head of a large screwdriver in the slots of the tank bolts from inside the tank to prevent them from turning. Tighten each nut alternately in half a turn with the adjustable wrench. Keep tightening each nut in turn to compress the rubber-tank washer to the cup. Do not over tighten the nuts when forcing the key after a firm resistance is felt.
9 Screw the fitting onto the end of the flexible water line on the compression stop valve. Tighten firmly with the adjustable wrench. Connect the end of the tank to the water supply line and tighten firmly with the adjustable wrench.
10 Pour a liter of water into the tank and check the connection bolts and rubber gasket for leaks. Tighten each bolt to connect another quarter turn if necessary. Open the shutoff valve of the water supply. Rinse and refill the tank two or three times to make sure there are no leaks during the washing action. Replace the toilet tank lid to complete the installation.
Tips and warnings
- Wear latex gloves while working on a toilet.