Changing sanitary devices or placing a new ceramic can transform radically not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the lifestyle of the one who uses it. Therefore, if your TOILET is already worn, stained or broken change it can be an easy task to improve your environment.
Tools and Materials
Tools to use:
- · Caulking gun (for silicone)
- · Paddle tip Screwdriver
- · Banner of measuring
- · Cross screwdriver
- · Electric drill
- · Bucket
- · Concrete Drill
- · French key
- · Pelican Key
- · Drill bit for ceramics
Materials to be used:
- · Silicone with fungicide
- · Non-stick resin tape
- · WD40
- · Wc
Print shopping list
Step by step
Before you start
Before you start
Before removing the WC, measure the distance between the back wall and the side screws at the base of the fixture, this will give you the measurement of the drain shaft on the floor.
With this measure choose your new device, selecting one that has the same axis or slightly larger.
Check all parts of your new TOILET.
Parts List:
- Cup and Pond
- Anchor screws to Floor
- Full Tank valve
- Tank-to-cup coupling seal
- Pond fixing bolts to cup
- Discharge handle
- Flexible Water
- Wax drain ring with plastic, integral verse
- Seat
- Stopcock (optional)
1
Remove existing TOILET.
Drain the pond.
Close the Stopcock (also known as the angular key) so that it does not pass
More water.
If there is no stopcock for the pond, or else you want to change it, close the key
General step of the house and open some water faucets in other rooms
To drain the whole system.
Remove the TOILET chain so that the water flows into the bowl. Should not enter
More water to the pond.
Put a bucket to receive the water and unscrew the existing flexible key
By the way.
Remove the anchor bolts from the cup.
Remove the pond from the Cup. This is not essential but it makes it easier to move.
If the nut is rusty and very tight, apply WD40 or similar product
to release it.
Recommendation
The TOILETs are heavy, take care of your back when lifting and moving.
Drain
Always try to use the same existing drain on the floor; Changing the position is complicated and quite demoro, and if the house has only one bathroom, it can become a real problem.
A change of drain implies-normally-more than a couple of working days: to break radieres or slabs, to cut existing pipes, to put a new section of pipe, to empty concrete again to close, etc.
And for all this it is advisable to hire specialists.
2
Install the new Cup
Present the cup with your pond and mark on the floor the location of the perforations for the new bolts.
If the location coincides with the above, remove the old anchors and put some new ones. Now, bolt the new.
If the perforations do not coincide, these holes must be filled with cement.
Once dry, drill two new holes with a ceramic bit.
Insert new plastic anchors.
Cup position
To ensure that the outlet hole in the bowl is perfectly centered on the drain pipe, do the following:
1. Once the old Cup is removed, mark the shafts of the drain pipe on the floor.
2. Put the new Cup back down and mark on its base the axles, extend
On the side faces.
3. Place the new cup by matching the marked shafts with the floor strokes.
4. Mark the part contour on the floor and remove it.
3
Fit the wax ring
Put the cup, without the pond, legs up (inverted) and carefully resting on a cardboard so that it is not scratched.
Remove the protective cover from the wax ring.
Fit firmly into the bowl drain.
To level
Sometimes the ceramics on the floor are not well leveled.
If this happens, put plenty of silicone on the edge of the TOILET base. This will help you level the position once it is set.
4
Seat Cup
Turn the cup carefully and lower it until the wax ring is perfectly aligned with the floor drain.
Press firmly into position.
Clean out the silicone when pushing the cup against the floor.
Screw the fixing bolts with their respective seals.
Installing Pond Parts
The inlet valve is installed with the separate 13 MMS float from the rear pond wall.
The discharge valve is installed facing the discharge tube.
5
Insert the inlet valve
Screw the float to the metal bar.
Insert the bar into the upper part of the valve and tighten into position by screwing.
Insert the valve into the corresponding hole in the pond, making sure it has the seal in place.
Notice that the float is separated from the walls of the pond.
With a pelican wrench secure the locking nut. Do not overtighten the account.
6
Insert the discharge valve
Insert the discharge valve into the central hole of the pond and with the locking nut secure it at the bottom.
The vertical overflow pipe must be oriented towards the inlet valve.
The top edge of the overflow pipe must be at least 13 MMS below the level of the handle perforation.
Recommendation
Be careful not to obstruct the placement of the two coupling bolts or the float bar.
7
Place coupling Seal
Place the coupling seal on the threaded end of the flush valve, taking care to leave the tapered side down and the two aligned bolt holes.
8
Settling the pond
Install the pond on the bowl and match the coupling holes.
9
Connect the pond
Place the flat rubber washers to the bolts.
Insert them into the holes in the pond by placing the metal washers and nuts on the bottom.
Tighten the nut by hand, then hold it in place with a French spanner and tighten it from the top with a screwdriver.
10
Install the plug
Remove the protection from the underside of the flapper or stopper.
Connect the discharge valve and ears to the overflow tube in the location indicated.
11
Install the discharge handle
Insert the discharge lever through the hole in the handle basin.
Secure with locking nut, turning counterclockwise.
The handle must be horizontal.
Connect the knurled banner of the plug to the discharge lever.
Adjust the length so that it rests completely on the discharge valve.
12
Insert the filling Hose
Insert the filling hose into the overflow tube.
13
Connect the Flexible
Connect the stopcock to the thread of the inlet key with a flexible water supply for WC.
Tighten with a French key without exaggeration.
Roll some non-stick resin tape into the thread of the nut or stopcock.
Open the stopcock.
The water level in the pond must be lower than the level of the overflow tube.
Regular with the screw at the top of the inlet valve, this will force the float to go down in the water.
14
Seal Cup
Seal with silicone around the bottom edge of the bowl and floor.