Manos a la Obra now brings you this not very nice tutorial but necessary when things go wrong with our bathroom, especially with the toilet. Learn how to repair leaks with these steps; In the following image you will see the cross section of the toilet and you will notice common problems with water in the floor, water stains on the roof or an occasional smell of sewer gas are signs of a possible leak.
Before pulling the toilet, pick up:
- A new wax ring
- Two 5/16 in. Sets Diameter of the water closet screws
- A silicone-based mastic tube, in a color to match the toilet
- A pack of plastic footwear for the bathroom if the toilet was swinging
Loosen the bolts
Unscrew the cabinet nut with a wrench. If the screw rotates together with the nut, grasp the exposed bolt over the nut with locking pliers. Loosen the nut enough to tighten a hacksaw blade under the nut and see through the bolt. TIP: Use a nearby metal saw as shown or wrap a rag around a bare blade.
Remove the toilet
Unscrew the nut that connects the water supply line to the bottom of the tank. Reach the inside of the tank with a long-handled screwdriver to hold the bolts while loosening the nuts underneath with a wrench. Lift the tank from the container, then lift the free container from the floor.
Clean around the drain hole
Fill a rag in the drain line to keep the sewer gases out of the house and pieces of wax from entering the pipe while cleaning. Scrape all the old wax off around the toilet horn and the toilet flange with a putty knife. Clean the floor under and around the old cauldron and debris toilet.
Prepare the new parts
Thoroughly clean the wax residue with mineral spirits. Place a reinforcement ring over the flange so that the grooves in the water cabinet bolt line up and mark the locations of the bolts on the floor. Drill a separation hole through the tile or masonry with a hammer drill and 1/4-in. Masonry Bit Stop when you reach the subfloor.
Apply caulking
Place a silicone cord around the perimeter of the toilet flange.
Screw the ring
Screw the ring on the floor, slide the water cabinet bolts into the slots and attach the nuts of the water cabinet with the nuts and washers of an extra set of bolts to the toilet flange. This will prevent the screws from tipping or wobbling while restarting the toilet. Scrape the excess putty and let the caulking cure during the night before you put the toilet.
Flange reinforcement rings
The flange reinforcement rings are essentially bandages that fit over the broken flange and bolt to the ground. They provide a new slot that receives the bolts from the toilet flange so that the toilet can be secured. You can find several styles in the store.
Prepare the extender ring
Clean the toilet flange with mineral spirits to remove all excess wax. Place the extension ring on the flange and remove the original flange bolts that align with those on the expansion ring. Apply a silicone caulk bead around the inside edge of the extender ring.
Screw the extender ring
Align the holes in the extension ring with the flange holes and screw both sides to the floor with 8 x 1-1 / 4 in. Stainless steel screws. Wipe off excess putty and restart the toilet
Remove the old flange
Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and slide each half of the flange bracket under the edges of the flange. Lift the flange with a screwdriver and lever if necessary.
Install the new wax ring
Push the new wax ring into the toilet's horn with the rounded side facing the toilet. Mark the positions of the water cabinet screw on the floor with adhesive tape.
Reinstall the toilet
Align the holes in the bolts with the adhesive tape and lower the toilet bowl directly onto the bolts. Push down on the rim of the toilet to seat the wax ring, then close the lid and sit on the toilet for a few minutes to force the toilet all the way to the floor. Stop when the porcelain surface rests on the finished floor.
Install wedges
Slide the bolt washer washers over the bolts, then tighten the washers and nuts of the water cabinet with a wrench. Be careful not to overtighten the nuts, especially on the separations between the toilet and the floor. Slide the toilet pads under any hole in the toilet rim and cut off the excess length. Some calzas are quite difficult. If a utility knife will not cut through the plastic, you may have to cut them off with a sharp wooden chisel.
Apply caulking
Heat around the base of the toilet with silicone putty, leaving the back end of the base. The gap leaves a space for moisture under the toilet to escape.